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Vega owners club

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Question for Vega folks... reference Sapphire Vega 64 "dual BIOS" ...stock. I ran Firestrike extreme:

1. With the BIOS switch towards the I/O plate (to the back of the PC). Top temp was 82c on the "hotspot"
2. With the BIOS switch away from I/O plate (to the front of the PC). Top temp was 84c on the "hotspot", lost some points on the graphics tests.

What's the difference? Seemed to run a lot better on 1. ...that's all I know.

I have not played with any fan curve profiles, but in both cases, the fan only got to 40% max

Edit... are there any threads aimed at overclocking/undervolting Vega 64?

I found a good video here:
 
Last edited:
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well i have a waterblocked power colour and ive only just recently tried the toward backpanel bios 1 which on mine wasnt the stock one (its meant to be the calmer low noise profile) and to me its seams a bit better but im not done finding out to be honest.

@Fleb89 what card do you have ie brand and type?.
 

Fleb89

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well i have a waterblocked power colour and ive only just recently tried the toward backpanel bios 1 which on mine wasnt the stock one (its meant to be the calmer low noise profile) and to me its seams a bit better but im not done finding out to be honest.

@Fleb89 what card do you have ie brand and type?.
Asus strix vega 56
 
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So I have had an extensive tuning session for mining ETH and thought I would share what Im currently running at, seams to be the best i can do ,ill attach to OP including the actual OC profile which you should be able to copy to C:\Users\yourusername\AppData\Local\AMD\CN and just load it into wattman.


Mining optimal setup 140watt 45.2 Mh sec  eth tune settings.pngMining optimal setup 140watt 45.2 Mh sec  eth running.png
 
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Do any of you get 99% GPU usage in-games? Mine just never seem to hit 99%, i don't know if its because its bottleneck by CPU or it's because it doesn't need to use that much power but when i reach certain part of game where fps dips i would thought it would drive the usage up to compensate it?
 
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I have had this behaviour and also dips in clock speed, to reduce the effect i have turned off frame rate control and set my clocks the same in all /both adjustable boxes in wattman , this has helped but some game's still don't use all the available resource but I recall this just being the way ie few games and systems utilise all the power all the time.
 
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I have had this behaviour and also dips in clock speed, to reduce the effect i have turned off frame rate control and set my clocks the same in all /both adjustable boxes in wattman , this has helped but some game's still don't use all the available resource but I recall this just being the way ie few games and systems utilise all the power all the time.
Thought it was just me lol,whenever the game is running below 90fps the usage hovers between 60-85%. On almost every game I've played no matter what game settings is used.
 
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Thought it was just me lol,whenever the game is running below 90fps the usage hovers between 60-85%. On almost every game I've played no matter what game settings is used.
I will have a good look now you mentioned it :)
 
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Good morning to everyone on here. I am now one of us that own Vega. I must say it is better, as one Vega 64 card gives you the optimal performance of 2 580s in crossfire. I do have one issue with Vega though. My Sapphire Nitro Vega 64 is automatically set to run the fans at 0 RPM under 50 degrees C. I want to be able to manually adjust the fans but no program I use (Trixx, Afterburner, As Rock Tuning, Radeon Settings) changes the setting. I do have a Gigabyte Vega card and I have no issue with those fans. If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated. I had reached out to Sapphire but the only response I got was to use Trixx or Radeon Settings. The summer is fast approaching and I would like to not have my PC forcing my Central Air to run harder than it needs to.

Thanks

SPECS:
 
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Good morning to everyone on here. I am now one of us that own Vega. I must say it is better, as one Vega 64 card gives you the optimal performance of 2 580s in crossfire. I do have one issue with Vega though. My Sapphire Nitro Vega 64 is automatically set to run the fans at 0 RPM under 50 degrees C. I want to be able to manually adjust the fans but no program I use (Trixx, Afterburner, As Rock Tuning, Radeon Settings) changes the setting. I do have a Gigabyte Vega card and I have no issue with those fans. If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated. I had reached out to Sapphire but the only response I got was to use Trixx or Radeon Settings. The summer is fast approaching and I would like to not have my PC forcing my Central Air to run harder than it needs to.

Thanks

SPECS:
welcome to the club , that's one of the newer versions of the card so i'm sorry I have no info on what would work personally, keep your eye on trixx though its still well supported and updated so im sure support will come with it though i might be wrong, hopefully AB will get updated , are you a bencher ,how's it running.
 
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welcome to the club , that's one of the newer versions of the card so i'm sorry I have no info on what would work personally, keep your eye on trixx though its still well supported and updated so im sure support will come with it though i might be wrong, hopefully AB will get updated , are you a bencher ,how's it running.


Thanks for the reply I think the fan profile is locked at the BIOS level for these cards. That is the only thing I can think of. As i understand you cannot flash Vega but I saw that there are VEGA BIOS on this site. In terms of gaming, I get the same feeling from Vega, coming from a RX 580 crossfire as when I went from HD6850 crossfire to HD 7950 crossfire. I have definitely had toothing issues with Vega as I was getting shutdowns in very large battles in TWWH2. I found out that having a zero fan on a PSU did not work with Vega because the heat envelope was too high.

welcome to the club , that's one of the newer versions of the card so i'm sorry I have no info on what would work personally, keep your eye on trixx though its still well supported and updated so im sure support will come with it though i might be wrong, hopefully AB will get updated , are you a bencher ,how's it running.


Time Spy 1.0








Valid result


Score 9 255 with AMD Radeon RX Vega 64(2x) and AMD Ryzen 7 1700




Graphics Score 11 894



CPU Score 4 101





Add to compare Share this result (?) Connect HWBOT account


Result details




Run details

Hide result Delete result View benchmark run


Other results in 3DMark run



Better than 93% of all results





Percentage of results per score




This score



9255




4K gaming PC



6733




Gaming laptop



3879




Gaming PC (HTC Vive/Oculus Rift min spec)



3362




Notebook



552






Name
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Description
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User blinnbanir


Graphics Card
Graphics Card AMD Radeon RX Vega 64 Vendor Unknown # of cards 2 SLI / CrossFire On Memory 8,192 MB Core clock 1,659 MHz Memory bus clock 945 MHz Driver version 24.20.11016.4

Graphics Card (Secondary)


Processor
Processor AMD Ryzen 7 1700 Reported stock core clock 3,900 MHz Maximum turbo core clock 3,895 MHz Physical / logical processors 1 / 8 # of cores 8 Package AM4 Manufacturing process 14 nm TDP 65 W

General
Operating system 64-bit Windows 10 (10.0.16299) Motherboard ASRock X470 Master SLI/ac Memory 16,384 MB Module 1 8,192 MB Corsair DDR4 @ 2,660 MHz Module 2 8,192 MB Corsair DDR4 @ 2,660 MHz Hard drive model 480 GB Force MP500


sorry it is so large but I forgot to install snipping tool this is a Time Spy bench that I just ran
 
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I am having issues with my Vega card throttling badly.

I've tried undervolting and even underclocking to get my system stable and cool (under 75c)

I have a Dell Alienware R7 Aurora with an 8700k, 32GB RAM, with a Vega 64. All Dell.

I've tried many guides and get the same results every time. It auto underclocks to around 1,200MHz or less under load. If temps are low, then it usually goes under 1,100MHz. I have temp theshold at 75C for fan settings.

I was hoping for a newer guide, or some insight on getting it fine tuned. Whenever it seem to reach 85C at stock setiings it starts lagging and stuttering.

I even used power saving mode and it seem to run the same as my undervolt modes.

It even happened when I first bought an Gigabyte Vega 64 last year (GV-RXVEGA64-8GD-B)

I'd be very grateful for any help.
-=Mark=-
 
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I am having issues with my Vega card throttling badly.

I've tried undervolting and even underclocking to get my system stable and cool (under 75c)

I have a Dell Alienware R7 Aurora with an 8700k, 32GB RAM, with a Vega 64. All Dell.

I've tried many guides and get the same results every time. It auto underclocks to around 1,200MHz or less under load. If temps are low, then it usually goes under 1,100MHz. I have temp theshold at 75C for fan settings.

I was hoping for a newer guide, or some insight on getting it fine tuned. Whenever it seem to reach 85C at stock setiings it starts lagging and stuttering.

I even used power saving mode and it seem to run the same as my undervolt modes.

It even happened when I first bought an Gigabyte Vega 64 last year (GV-RXVEGA64-8GD-B)

I'd be very grateful for any help.
-=Mark=-

What software are you using to tune your card? Also how are you benchmarking? As a Vega owner I can tell you it's easy to heat these babies up, but you can take steps to mitigate that. You're never going to reach the cards full potential without putting it under water, just so you know. A stock card should get you 1500 + clocks on the core and 1000 on the memory with both set to 1 volt.
 

INSTG8R

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Guess I should join the club. Sapphire Nitro+ Vega 64 revision 2. So only 2 8 pin not 3. I use the “econo” BIOS so I’m maxing at 240W vs 275 on the “main” BIOS. I don’t mess about with it I just use the Turbo preset in Wattman and I’m good. Temps top out at 76C and I’m regularly boosting to around 1530.
 
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Am I the only one on TPU that has a Liquid Cooled RX Vega64?
 
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What software are you using to tune your card?

Wattman so far.

Also how are you benchmarking?

3DMark. I Purchased it when it was on sale cheap. Also, my Subnautica game. I also have two 4k monitors with Freesync. Only game with one monitor.

As a Vega owner I can tell you it's easy to heat these babies up, but you can take steps to mitigate that. You're never going to reach the cards full potential without putting it under water, just so you know. A stock card should get you 1500 + clocks on the core and 1000 on the memory with both set to 1 volt.

I can't get 1,442 MHz at 1.000v consistently.

I've been thinking a Morpheus cooler or similar. I have an old Arctic Cooling Accelero S1 Plus that I found in my closet that I forgot I even had, but looks too small. Maybe a water cooler, but this case doesn't look very cooler friendly. I'd have to modify it greatly, or get a new case, PSU. and maybe MB. Not sure if this is ATX standard. Dell usually isn't.

But any advice reaching at least the default speeds of 1535 would be awesome.
 
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Could be. I dunno...

I'm gonna be slappin' the MORPHEUS II with a couple ARCTIC BioniX F120s, and a little Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, on mine tomorrow. :rockout:View attachment 103680

Be careful if its not a molded package. At least 8 people on OCUK forums have fried their Vega's by swapping coolers on non-molded packaging. Until this water cooler fails on mine, I won't be pulling mine off.

Questions I have for you though when you get it in and going...

What stepping is the card you have? C1 or C0?

Before and after temps?
 
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Wattman so far.



3DMark. I Purchased it when it was on sale cheap. Also, my Subnautica game. I also have two 4k monitors with Freesync. Only game with one monitor.



I can't get 1,442 MHz at 1.000v consistently.

I've been thinking a Morpheus cooler or similar. I have an old Arctic Cooling Accelero S1 Plus that I found in my closet that I forgot I even had, but looks too small. Maybe a water cooler, but this case doesn't look very cooler friendly. I'd have to modify it greatly, or get a new case, PSU. and maybe MB. Not sure if this is ATX standard. Dell usually isn't.

But any advice reaching at least the default speeds of 1535 would be awesome.

I see, well I wouldn't put an aftermarket cooler on it unless it's an EK water block, but that's just me. As for tuning on Wattman, for Stages 6 and 7 make sure your voltage is set to 1000 or one volt. Then try dialing the frequency back to -2.5%. Personally, I run mine at -5% and the clock is in the 1480s and it helps keep the temps below 75. The memory tuning will vary from card to card, but you may be able to get away with 1050 MHz max with 1 volt. Fan speed is entirely dependent on how much you can tolerate, but I've gone as high as 2800RPM. Temperature target is important now, leave alone the 85/75 target but dial up the power limit all the way up to +50%. 3D mark is fine for testing, I haven't much experience, but go for it! Biggest thing that controls temps for me is setting a FPS limit on my games. I usually set the cap at 90, but for some games, like Total War Warhammer II, I dial it back to 60. I never used to do this with my GTX 970, but like I said, these cards like to heat up, so I prefer to reign them in before they get too hot.

If these steps don't help you, then I would say you just got an under performing card from the factory. One last tidbit to consider is the airflow in your case and ambient temperature in the room. It's summer in the States and I keep my house pretty warm, about 26C. Testing for these cards usually occurs at 22C, if I recall, so that's also going to limit you. Now since this is a blower style card, it's not going to do as well as those aftermarket cards with 2 or 3 fans on them. Your case's incoming airflow is very important to helping keep temps as low as possible. Make sure your air intakes are gobbling up a lot of cool air and sending it towards the GPU. I hope this helps you in getting the performance out of the card you seek.
 
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Enjoy having the LM dry out on that cooler.. I sure hope there's no aluminum underneath that copper base :/
yeh i cant see anything to cool Vrms with that either, Sorry I am house moving atm and have missed a bit of Tpu's flow.
@Flyordie
I have a EK waterblock on my powercolour vega 64 ref, goes as high as 1750 core and 1050 memory stable gaming ,but thats with epic heat output ,power use and a lot of radiator, i normally game at 1600 /950 to keep temps and power use reasonable.

Also I've added those to the club I had missed, please let me know if you think post one either requires something or has someone missing ,Ty :)
 
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Enjoy having the LM dry out on that cooler.. I sure hope there's no aluminum underneath that copper base :/
I've only had problems with LM "drying out" when applied on copper. Which seems to be solvable by reapplication. It appears that once the copper surface has "soaked up" whatever it is that gets separated from the LM compound on an intitial application, that it effectively prevents any more separation from occurring. Forming some sort of plating or protective barrier. Anyway, yes, I'm well aware that it happens. But I've never had it happen on anything but a pure copper surface(this cooler is nickel plated BTW, so no issues anticipated with it). Other than the small amount of what I presume to be gallium that infuses itself into the silicon die. Which, if you've dealt with LM enough, you'll notice that after being applied to a bare die it can never be completely cleaned/removed from it. There will always be areas of "staining"(for lack of a better word) on the die. Which is inconsequential(nothing to worry about). And doesn't cause any "drying out" that I've ever witnessed. I just took apart my 3570K that had CLU under the IHS(nickel plated copper) for ~3 years and it was still in a fully liquid state.

I'm going with the Morpheus II because it's cheaper than a water block. And less hassle to deal with. If it doesn't work to my liking I'll be getting a liquid cooling setup for it. It's already not working exactly to my liking, and I've haven't even got it installed yet. I've been doing some test fitting and trying to decide what to do as far as VRM cooling. It does come with a bunch of small aluminum heatsinks in various suitable sizes. With enough thermal tape and thermal pads to install them all. But I'm strongly leaning in the direction of modding the stock VRM heatsink plate thingamabob and just using that(just needs some height removed to fit under the cooler and 4 holes drilled out a litter bigger so the mounting "nuts" on the cooler will pass through). Some of the thermal pads got a little messed up when I removed it though. So I'm probably going to replace those with something better(or maybe just use a little grease to fill in the imperfections).

HOWEVER, the bigger deal is, the cooler itself it not a direct fit. The mounting holes line up fine. But the mounting hardware is totally not sized correctly. And, depending on the GPU die height, which varies between the molded and non-molded packages, will be more or less incorrect depending on which you have. I have the molded version. And I've needed to fabricate and install a couple .037" shims under the mounting brackets to get the "nuts" on the brackets to meet up with the PCB. Or, rather, get them close enough that I'm not worried about bending the shit out of my card when the screws get fully tightened down. And about those screws, also not sized correctly. So to get it installed "correctly" I'm reusing the stock backside mounting plate(X bracket) with the stock screws(which are the correct size/length, and work with the "nuts" on the cooler mounting brackets). I also needed to buy four M3 x 8mm flat head machine screws to be able to fit the shims. Probably could have went with 6mm(and I still might). But the 5mm screws it comes with were not long enough to compensate for the shims. No biggie to replace @ 27¢/each(from the local hardware store).

And the adapter to plug the fans into the header on the card. Ordered that yesterday. The fans I bought are daisy-chainable via connectors they already have(so I don't need a splitter, though I already have 2 of them that I bought by mistake a while back).

So...still waiting for a part(and considering buying replacement thermal pads)...and have a bit more modding to do(pretty sure I'm not going to use the feeble looking VRM heatsinks provided)...to get the thing up and running with it. All in good time...
 
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fullinfusion

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I've only had problems with LM "drying out" when applied on copper. Which seems to be solvable by reapplication. It appears that once the copper surface has "soaked up" whatever it is that gets separated from the LM compound on an intitial application, that it effectively prevents any more separation from occurring. Forming some sort of plating or protective barrier. Anyway, yes, I'm well aware that it happens. But I've never had it happen on anything but a pure copper surface(this cooler is nickel plated BTW, so no issues anticipated with it). Other than the small amount of what I presume to be gallium that infuses itself into the silicon die. Which, if you've dealt with LM enough, you'll notice that after being applied to a bare die it can never be completely cleaned/removed from it. There will always be areas of "staining"(for lack of a better word) on the die. Which is inconsequential(nothing to worry about). And doesn't cause any "drying out" that I've ever witnessed. I just took apart my 3570K that had CLU under the IHS(nickel plated copper) for ~3 years and it was still in a fully liquid state.

I'm going with the Morpheus II because it's cheaper than a water block. And less hassle to deal with. If it doesn't work to my liking I'll be getting a liquid cooling setup for it. It's already not working exactly to my liking, and I've haven't even got it installed yet. I've been doing some test fitting and trying to decide what to do as far as VRM cooling. It does come with a bunch of small aluminum heatsinks in various suitable sizes. With enough thermal tape and thermal pads to install them all. But I'm strongly leaning in the direction of modding the stock VRM heatsink plate thingamabob and just using that(just needs some height removed to fit under the cooler and 4 holes drilled out a litter bigger so the mounting "nuts" on the cooler will pass through). Some of the thermal pads got a little messed up when I removed it though. So I'm probably going to replace those with something better(or maybe just use a little grease to fill in the imperfections).

HOWEVER, the bigger deal is, the cooler itself it not a direct fit. The mounting holes line up fine. But the mounting hardware is totally not sized correctly. And, depending on the GPU die height, which varies between the molded and non-molded packages, will be more or less incorrect depending on which you have. I have the molded version. And I've needed to fabricate and install a couple .037" shims under the mounting brackets to get the "nuts" on the brackets to meet up with the PCB. Or, rather, get them close enough that I'm not worried about bending the shit out of my card when the screws get fully tightened down. And about those screws, also not sized correctly. So to get it installed "correctly" I'm reusing the stock backside mounting plate(X bracket) with the stock screws(which are the correct size/length, and work with the "nuts" on the cooler mounting brackets). I also needed to buy four M3 x 8mm flat head machine screws to be able to fit the shims. Probably could have went with 6mm(and I still might). But the 5mm screws it comes with were not long enough to compensate for the shims. No biggie to replace @ 27¢/each(from the local hardware store).

And the adapter to plug the fans into the header on the card. Ordered that yesterday. The fans I bought are daisy-chainable via connectors they already have(so I don't need a splitter, though I already have 2 of them that I bought by mistake a while back).

So...still waiting for a part(and considering buying replacement thermal pads)...and have a bit more modding to do(pretty sure I'm not going to use the feeble looking VRM heatsinks provided)...to get the thing up and running with it. All in good time...
Okay good, and yes gallium is what is being absorbed by the copper and what also keeps liquid metal in its liquid form. They say after time there will be enough gallium soaked into the copper that will stop any further absorption.

So what are your plans on protecting the small little transistors around the GPU package? I'd really hate to see the tiniest bit of LM squeeze out during assembly. Sizzle sizzle poof is what I would be afraid of.
 
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