Water Chiller - that's her modified for Subzero ;-)

[FireFox]

yes it can run at a higher voltage/flow, do you need it? Answer is probably no.

Maybe he needs it because he has a Chiller with 6L/7L coolant that goes from the Machine to the Chiller and that's a lot of coolant.

Note: my Chiller has 5L coolant and the pump is running at full speed ( 4998Rpm )

 

[Nicholas Peyton]

I have a much thicker coolant too. About 25% of the mix will be glycol product & 75% distilled.

 

[FireFox]

I have a much thicker coolant too. About 25% of the mix will be glycol product & 75% distilled.

That's why stronger the pump and better it's.

 

[FR@NK]

i thought about doing that, quite strongly.. but when I thought about what would happen if the tank ever burst I chickened out..

would of been nice though; would of solved condensation problem forever; apart from maybe a little condensation on the tubes not under the oil, this water would drip down the tubes which would have to of been periodically removed from the top of the oil.

EVGA also don't honour warranties for equipment dunked in mineral oil.#
Not because the oil does any harm, but because they can't fix it up and ship it off to another customer as refurbished. So they changed their policy.

You dont use mineral oil. There is a new synthetic fluid from 3M that doesnt leave any residue on the hardware. Its designed for immersion cooling large data centers.

My tank is almost done:

Still need to get it in a case and make a chiller for the fluid.

 

[Nicholas Peyton]

You dont use mineral oil. There is a new synthetic fluid from 3M that doesnt leave any residue on the hardware. Its designed for immersion cooling large data centers.

My tank is almost done:

Still need to get it in a case and make a chiller for the fluid.

Wow. Nice.

I will look this up once my PC is running again.

Im in thr painsteaking process (as we speak) of insulating my GPU for a full cover block & sub-zero

Yes you can run it up to 24v with a max of 0.80 amps at its max voltage. it will increase your flow rate substantially but if your only running a single rad and a single block you won't need all of that flow. Maybe if you were running that pump in conjunction with 3 or 4 rads were you have substantial pressure drop it would make sense to bump the voltage / flow rate. In other words yes it can run at a higher voltage/flow, do you need it? Answer is probably no.

Also regarding running my pump at 24v. I will have a look on ebay and see if i can find a cheap '12v to 24v step up' or something i can plug a molex into.

Never thought id ever be able to "overclock" my pump, lol

 

[Arrakis9]

Maybe he needs it because he has a Chiller with 6L/7L coolant that goes from the Machine to the Chiller and that's a lot of coolant.

Note: my Chiller has 5L coolant and the pump is running at full speed ( 4998Rpm )

the amount of coolant in the loop is not going to make a bit of difference how well the pump preforms or how cold your loop will get, its a matter of how many pressure dropping components your using and/or the amount of vertical pressure your putting on your pump. those pumps you guys are using are usually rated to about 8/10 feet of head pressure which is seriously a lot of pressure for a 12v pump. flow rate is not everything when it comes to liquid cooling of any caliber. you have to remember that the more flow rate you put in a loop the less time the coolant also has to dissipate heat in the exchanger as well. you need to find balance in your loop, not everything is the same for every loop.

i'd recommend looking up some articles @skinneelabs or @martinsliquidlab if your truly interested in getting your setup done correctly.

I have a much thicker coolant too. About 25% of the mix will be glycol product & 75% distilled.

you can run a 50/50 mix just fine. that isn't considered very viscous, maybe if it was something like mineral oil i'd consider bumping the voltage.

if you really are dead set on bumping the voltage on your pump use one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTJE3L4/?tag=tec06d-20

people normally use those for peltier setups and from what I've read they're reliable, you just need to setup a relay to use one which should be easy to find a guide online to do that with that exact unit.

 

[cdawall]

I ran 75/25 of Dexcool for years in my cold water build. I had a d4/d5 combo and never touched the voltage. Even had to bump the variable pump down.

 

[FireFox]

Today we had -7c

My Room temperature was 13.7c

Temperatures inside the Machine.

 

[m1dg3t]

Didn't read the thread, too lazy Have any of these old toads suggested conformal coating spray or 'dragon skin' silicone?

 

[FireFox]

Didn't read the thread, too lazy Have any of these old toads suggested conformal coating spray or 'dragon skin' silicone?

Are you talking to me?

 

[m1dg3t]

Are you talking to me?

You & Nick I guess, or anyone else interested in options for protection when going sub ambient/zero

 

[FireFox]

You & Nick I guess, or anyone else interested in options for protection when going sub ambient/zero

@Nicholas Peyton would be interested.

I don't want to have anything to do with Subzero temps

 

[m1dg3t]

@Nicholas Peyton would be interested.

I don't want to have anything to do with Subzero temps

Wait till your ambient increases and you start getting condensation inside your rig then I guess? Long as you keep your PC temps below ambient, or within 1c or 2c - depending on RH of course, you'll be Ok

 

[cdawall]

Wait till your ambient increases and you start getting condensation inside your rig then I guess? Long as you keep your PC temps below ambient, or within 1c or 2c - depending on RH of course, you'll be Ok

They just have to match dew point.

 

[m1dg3t]

They just have to match dew point.

Isn't that what I said, or are we talking different words here? What is it with people and semantics? LoLoLoL

 

[cdawall]

Isn't that what I said, or are we talking different words here? What is it with people and semantics? LoLoLoL

Man you had letters and numbers. I am simple word man.

 

[FireFox]

They just have to match dew point.

Exactly.

Long as you keep your PC temps below ambient, or within 1c or 2c - depending on RH of course, you'll be Ok

My temp are at least 10c above the dew point.

 

[Nicholas Peyton]

This is taking AGES lol. (Insulation work) and other prep.
So far so good though!
I'm using my mobile phone to get onto techpoweup, here.

I'll post pics later, after she's up & running.

 

[FireFox]

This is taking AGES lol. (Insulation work) and other prep.

That's not a job you do in 5 minutes, it takes time and patience

 

[Nicholas Peyton]

GPU Insulation
Thermal pads will be on memory and VRM

Full-Block on top of card.

EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 CLASSIFIED

is 'frost' conductive?

at least it can't 'drip'

 

[DOM]

Frost is just frosted confiscation so i would think yes so i would cover them areas with arlmafluex

 

[FireFox]

View attachment 83304



is 'frost' conductive?

at least it can't 'drip'


View attachment 83307


View attachment 83308


View attachment 83309

And finally you got Subzero temperatures

What about the CPU, and what happens with the frost when temperatures goes back to normal?

 

[Nicholas Peyton]

Frost just seems to dissipate (sometimes it turns into a bit of moisture, which I just wipe away)

Only seeing it at the 'compression fittings' really (I could easily add a bit more Armaflex -- but I kind of like it; none of the fittings are positioned to allow dribble onto important areas).

oh & I finally broke through
2303 MHZ on GTX 1080 (*stock* boost on a Nvidia Founders Edition 1080 is 1733 MHZ)

Not entirely stable but it was a quick dirty run, at stock voltages and only -4 water temp

I need to revisit the back of the PCB next, before I push lower.

P.S. not tried anything with the CPU yet. Not had time. I will tomorrow

 

[cdawall]

I would say do a 3dmark run, but I feel like the cpu would disappoint...

 

[Nicholas Peyton]

I would say do a 3dmark run, but I feel like the cpu would disappoint...

it would

I'm delighted I got this far.

It begun to get soo cold moisture begun to appear on the BACK of the PCB. And not just where the block touches on the front via pads.

My memory temps were even sitting at 0c, idling lol.
I never insulated the back of the GPU because the block is on the front. (and I'm still a n00b to this; its my first ever sub-zero. I make no claims to be an expert -- farrr from it).

Anyway it cooled the entire PCB, so well, the entire card was beginning to go into the minus, on the I/O side.
VRM side was still about 5-10c.

VRM is idling far too high though (compared to water temp) a lot higher than before I insulated. I think too much liquid electrical tape got down there underneath the pads OR I need to re-seat with an extra 0.5mm on the VRM to get better compression again.

I'm going to need to think about that lol.

Its also making me think again.. about that "bag" idea the other day. (obviously not for prolonged use)....?

God knows, but I'm impressed by the results.. and that was only between -4c & -8c

Chiller was still dropping but REALLY beginning to slow.
For some reason the chillers draw on power seems to drop from 325w-350w to eventually only 225w (and turning on/off doesn't reset).. no idea why because that's a 1/3rd performance loss. :-(

If I return to normal ambient temps it's fine.

Next Steps:?
1. Have some fun with CPU next.
2. re-seat to fix VRM temps on GPU..
2b. revisit insulation especially on BACK of GPU.
3. Research ----> Either upgrade Chiller to a full 1 HP unit, or start researching how to create a "sealed" chillbox to house the PC to prevent air circulation + humidity. (or both).


P.S.
-A big thank you to everyone at tech-power up who has leant there advice and expertise, motivation and inspiration
-Especially Knoxx; having someone to bounce off/talk to about this has been great






More pics:

Spraying £800 GPU

it peels off just like tape by the way

Insulating CPU

Picture of my Sub-Zero setup

Slab of Armaflex on bottom of block