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Copper anti seize grease as thermal paste?

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Ok follow up. There was some not understanding its properties. It has a operational property of negative Arctic with a wind chill, up to 982c (1800f), meaning it will keep it's property, or consistency between that range before it freezes, or turns into a liquid state at which point will evaporate. Since a CPU or GPU will never get close to that heat, it doesn't loose its properties, as you can see in the pic below when I removed the heat sink after 8 days straight being on 24/7 and being gamed on. I tried electrolytic grease once and it liquefied almost instantly, but this stuff was the exact same as it was when I applied it, and as you can see when I removed the sink it was see through on the CPU, and not much left on the sink at all as well. I also included a pic of what was needed to reapply it to the CPU, and what the CPU looked like before I installed my noctua cooler into it. It's not much at all and no where as much as what was needed when I used my Arctic MX4 paste to get complete coverage. As far as temps go, it seems to be idling around the same as before at 41c, but I think I fudged up the install and moved the cooler as I was tightening it down, so when I get home will reapply and check again. But as you can see in the pic it's settled at 41c.

But after doing all of this I will be checking it again in a month, or sooner if temps start to raise, but after seeing all of this, and temps, and not needing as much to get a ultra thin layer applied I have not a single problem at all using it from this point on as tim for my CPU or even GPU. Yes it is conductive, but so is a lot of other tim on the market, and even liquid metal for that matter, just got to be careful applying it on and make sure not too use much of out at all to ooze out shorting crap out in the process.

I will report back with pics of my 5700 xt temps before and after as well. At 8 bucks for a quarter lb, it will for sure last me a lifetime for it takes hardly at all to get full coverage, and it's like the same amount as liquid metal being applied, but instead of covering it with a qtip, you can use your finger to do so, and a whole hell of a lot cheaper, and tons more of it.
 

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Not the best stuff for HSC, but better than Cheese. :)

https://xtex.com.au/wp-content/uploads/Kopr-Kote-SDS.pdf
Having read through that, the properties of this stuff seem excellent for use as a TIM. Non-corrosive, excellent heat transfer properties by design and the grease does not melt or run until extreme temps are reached and let face facts, if a PC gets THAT hot, you have bigger problems than the TIM getting runny...

I've just ordered a bottle. Gonna try it out for giggles.
 
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Having read through that, the properties of this stuff seem excellent for use as a TIM. Non-corrosive, excellent heat transfer properties by design and the grease does not melt or run until extreme temps are reached and let face facts, if a PC gets THAT hot, you have bigger problems than the TIM getting runny...

I've just ordered a bottle. Gonna try it out for giggles.
Let us know what happens
 
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Thinking this went under a few radar's it's GPU copper grease time now fun.
 

hat

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You got before and after load temps?
 
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You got before and after load temps?

This is a shot I took few weeks ago when using the Amd Max cooler and Arctic Ceramic TIM. I dont have one how ever when I changed it to the Anti Seize grease, but did take a shot of it when I applied it to my Noctua cooler however. And you can see between them the clock speeds, the fan speed, and the temp diff between the Ceramic on the stock Amd max cooler, then the Anti grease on my Noctua. I will be posting the diff it makes, if any or not, again when my 5700xt shows up, thats for sure ;)

OK, I gathered some screen shots I made with the Amd Max cooler at full speed, and using Ryzen master to show clocks, and temps it was reporting. I also just did some screen shots of the Noctua cooler, at full speed, using the Anti seize grease. There seems to be a few degrees difference between the coolers, and the use of there thermal pastes. Also the Amd cooler does run a hell of a lot faster at full speeds then the noctua, which I made a screen shot of Nzxt showing the full speeds of both coolers, and what it was reporting as far as temps at a idle, or near idle, with not much, if at all cpu usage. I would think that if my Noctua fans could hit over 2K rpm like the Amd cooler, then there would of been a even bigger gap in temps, but as it is, Im happy with the results I got, and again, for me at least, am happy enough to keep using this paste due to cost, coverage, and results between them all I have used.

BTW the AMd cooler temps were taken, at full speed, and using Arctic MX4 2019 Edition. The very first pic is the Noctua cooler, not at full speed. The second is then with the fan curve with the Arctic paste, and cooler at max. The 3rd is the Noctua cooler with the copper grease at full speed. The 4th is the Amd cooler, full speed, ryzen results before testing. The 5th is the Amd cooler, full speed right at the very end of the test results Ryzen master was reporting. The 6th one is the Noctua cooler, at full speed with the copper grease, fan at full speed Ryzen master reporting. And last one is what Ryzen master was reporting at the very end of the test using the Noctua cooler and copper grease.
 

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I see what you're doing in post #26 with the set of pictures........how you're secretly giving everyone the finger in picture number 4 without making it too obvious. Nice. :toast:

I don't do much mechanic work on cars, but my step-dad has something similar that he used while doing work on cars, but it wasn't copper looking, it was silver in color. He said he's had the stuff for years, bought 1 container of it back in the late 80s and it's lasted him all this time (though his container is almost empty now).

This stuff seems interesting and I'd be up for trying it out, but that wouldn't be until I got a new build and that might for another good 12 months from now. I'm interested in any future updates you have to share.
 
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I bought a quarter pound of the stuff for a tune up for 8 bucks. While my friend was putting it on my plugs, it got me thinking, thermal paste applications. So I tried it, and why not? Copper dust in a lubricating grease that's good all the way up to 982c, so copper for thermal, great to keep it all together.

Right now I'm happy to report I went from around 52c-58c with my Amd spire max, and 3600x, to now at 42c-45c. I bought a noctua cooler that needs the am4 adapters to fit it to my 3600x, and will report back, maybe some pictures, if it held up for the week is been applied, and running 24/7. I will also be trying it on my 5700xt I have coming as well. When I applied it, it was like applying liquid metal, took hardly any to coat my cpu, much smaller amount then my Arctic MX4 to coat it all with it's copper goodness.

If you decide to try just keep in mind, that like liquid metal thermal it will conduct electricity, so be careful with it, and at 8 buck a quarter pound, and as liberal that is needed, I have a lifetime supply of it
not sure about your paste , but I removed the cement from the amd prism , for artic silver 5 and my cpu temp dropped 8c under full load. I've also used altronics thermal grease which is dirt cheap for the same result , seems yeah good move....
 
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The other Jet-Lube product : SS-30 is 30% copper and may work even better. It's twice as much $ for the 1/4 lb size.


1583935622800.png

Size:1/4 pound
Works as a similar and dissimilar metal between two metal surfaces to prevent seizing. This compound formula will not melt in high temperatures and improves conductivity and ground continuity. Designed for specially formulated to prevent excessive over torque and has a very high static friction factor of 0.13, the unique blend of complex thickeners to help evenly distribute the copper flake unto the metal surfaces to eliminate metal to threaded metal contact. Recommended lubrication: stud threads shall be thoroughly lubricated on both ends, fill the threaded area "Root - to - Crest" on the stud/bolt. The nut will push the anti-seize down the threads as it travels. Bearing surfaces between nut and hardened washer or nut and flange should be lubricated with anti-seize in the area where the nut will rest against the flange or washer. Anti-seize on the assembly should be easily visible. Not recommended for: not for use on oxygen lines. Not intended for use with aluminum where galvanic corrosion could be a significant issue. Petroleum based lubricating grease with copper filling. Personal precautions: wear gloves and protective overalls. Environmental precautions: do not allow it to enter drains. Spillage: scrape up bulk, then wipe up remainder with cloth. To prevent walking hazard, pick up remaining residue with diatomaceous earth. Handling: no special handling precautions necessary. Storage: Do not store at elevated temperatures. Respiratory protection: none needed. Hand protection: nitrile gloves for hypersensitive persons. Anti-seize thread lubricant and conductive termination compound is 30 percent high purity/refined copper flake mixed in a high temp non-melt base grease formula that aids in conductivity and is an ideal anti-seize compound for threaded fasteners and cable connections. Appearance: bright copper. K-factor: 0.13. Service rating: -65 degree F to 1800 degree F. Eco-certified. Size: 1/4 lbs brush top can.
 
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Dang, had I seen that stuff, and at the time of buying it for my tune up, and thought of using it also as TIM, I would of gotten it. But since I have so much of this stuff left I already bought, and pretty decent results, I wont be trying it for about 100 years. But maybe my son at that point when I will it to him, and he continues building computer at that time, provided it isnt all cloud based crap, will update it to your children the results :p
 
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What is the purpose of testing TIm when CPU usage is 1%, 2% and 11% .... If you want to test TIM performance, Run RoG Real Bench and post those results.
 
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If you took the time to look at the pictures to see the idle temps and speed and all, why didnt you look at the ones little ways up where I also put it under a load, using cinebench, and the Ryzen master software, showing the diff with the fan curve set to 100%, and the amd pushing well over 2K fan speed, and the Noctua doing a max of 1300K?

The pics, as you can see by looking at them, show they was taken right at the end run, in single core test ;)

Even at under a load, there is a 3-5 degree diff, but need to take in effect the cost of a quarter lb of this stuff, vs a few oz's of say the Arctic MX4. The fact you only need a very little tiny dab of the Anti seize vs Arctic to get a full coat with minimal ooze. And that the Amd fan set at 100% is over 2K rpm, and the Noctua is only around 1300K rpm, keeping the thermals down little bit better under a load, and a ton quieter vs the Amd max cooler with the much lower rpm, and much bigger dual fans.
 
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Update, Amazon canceled my order for lack of stock, so I just went to Autozone and got a 1oz tube of similar stuff for $5. Going to try it out tomorrow when a new CPU arrives for a system I'm upgrading.
 
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Take pics what it looks like after testing
 
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If you took the time to look at the pictures to see the idle temps and speed and all, why didnt you look at the ones little ways up where I also put it under a load, using cinebench, and the Ryzen master software, showing the diff with the fan curve set to 100%, and the amd pushing well over 2K fan speed, and the Noctua doing a max of 1300K?

The pics, as you can see by looking at them, show they was taken right at the end run, in single core test ;)

Even at under a load, there is a 3-5 degree diff, but need to take in effect the cost of a quarter lb of this stuff, vs a few oz's of say the Arctic MX4. The fact you only need a very little tiny dab of the Anti seize vs Arctic to get a full coat with minimal ooze. And that the Amd fan set at 100% is over 2K rpm, and the Noctua is only around 1300K rpm, keeping the thermals down little bit better under a load, and a ton quieter vs the Amd max cooler with the much lower rpm, and much bigger dual fans.

1, For one... I don't want to get a case of RSI clicking on dozens of pictures. If you want answers, don't make it so hard for readers to get them. I responded to post 33, saw nothing of value that I could read in those pics
2. In viewing them have to squint to read the numbers and then still guessing due to clarity
3. Don't find Cinebench indicative or true results, don't find single core tests of any value.

If you took the time to type the results, use appropriate testing likely to present real world worse case conditions and load all cores, the results could be compared with those expected.
 
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Ok, so update. Tried out the copper grease and the temps didn't vary at all. The CPU fan didn't even spin up under Intel Burn Test.
IMG_20200312_161052.jpg
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Yes, I only tested the original dual core the system had as the replacement CPU was damaged in shipping(thanx UPS).

The OP wasn't kidding, this stuff is the real deal. I wonder what the long-term effects would be?..
 
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Ok, so update. Tried out the copper grease and the temps didn't vary at all. The CPU fan didn't even spin up under Intel Burn Test.
View attachment 147998
View attachment 147999
Yes, I only tested the original dual core the system had as the replacement CPU was damaged in shipping(thanx UPS).

The OP wasn't kidding, this stuff is the real deal. I wonder what the long-term effects would be?..
that looks like a thick layer, more than what you need.
 
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I'm thinking about grabbing some of this for some larger stuff that I would normally use the cheap silicone stuff on myself.
 

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Hmm... I'll stick to mx-4. I don't do enough applications to warrant buying something like this, heh
 
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I'm thinking about grabbing some of this for some larger stuff that I would normally use the cheap silicone stuff on myself.
Might be worth try, I've run the Intel Burn Test several times. Not only does this stuff work well, the heatsink seems to cool off faster than it did with normal TIM. I'm actually really impressed with it.
Hmm... I'll stick to mx-4. I don't do enough applications to warrant buying something like this, heh
That's fair. I desided to try this stuff out of pure scientific curiosity.
 
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Just something to be aware of is the oil separation (ASTM D-6184), which can be an issue where oil can weep from grease products at elevated temperatures. It's not really an issue on farm machinery that are usually greasy anyway, but I'd keep an eye on it with computer gear. Could be argued that a 3% loss by volume at 100C from a little smear of anti-seize would be next to nothing, but still it's a real thing. Also want to make sure that it doesn't do any weird staining on the IHS that could become a problem when you go to resell your CPU. But hey, if those things aren't an issue then the stuff seems to be alright.
 
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I myself am very happy with my results, and the results lexluthermiester has gotten in his tests as well. I said I was going to check it again within a months time to make sure it hasnt turned into water, or dried out, but Im thinking I am going to wait 5-6 months. I will be keeping an eye on my temps at idle, and under load the whole time I wait to pull my heat sink. Also since this stuff has a operating temp before it will change its make up, arctic temps, -54c, and the sun, 982c, and also the fact that in a automotive application, its not to change its properties when put on like spark plugs, you apply it, and then dont change your plugs for 100K which can be upwards of over 8 years, and at that point, its properties shouldnt have changed, meaning no drying up, or turning to liquid, under a MUCH hotter load caused by heat of the head and combustion. Those temps in a car application, get MUCH hotter, and more changes in temp variants then my cpu, or gpu, will ever get to. So since it wont changes its make up within those temps, and in a car application where temps get much much much hotter then a cpu, and its not designed to break up, but keep its make up within the low temps, and extreme high temps, I cannot see this stuff turning to liquid, or drying up any time soon at all.

I tried this due to almost running out of my Arctic MX4 2019, and Arctic ceramic tim because I ALWAYS keep reapplying my tim very often, on everything, including my motherboard heat sinks, for I change that stuff the moment I get a new board, if its not using pads, I never use what comes on a new heat sink, rubbing alcohol and rag to the rescue, and as soon as I get a new video card, I remove the heat sink and put on much better tim I have on hand to replace that crappy stuff they use. So I will report back on this if my temps change sooner, and I will also take pictures in 5-6 months time, seeing what the paste has turned into, or not into, for I am very curious. And since this stuff works a little better then both my Arctic tim's I own, and the cost is SOOOOOOOOOOO much cheaper, and get SOOOOOOOOO much more of this stuff, that if it passes what Ill be putting my cpu and gpu, which as mentioned I have a new 5700xt coming soon, and will be testing its heat stock, and then when I remove the oem paste with this stuff, with pictures, I am not afraid at all in using this stuff from this point forward as my new tim ;)

If you dont want to try it, thats fine, Im not pushing ANYONE in trying this stuff, its just I felt the need to mention I DID try it, and could say that in my applications, that I feel its working as good, or slightly better, then what I been using, had used, and tests I have tried it with, and felt I should post my results and feeling on this stuff, due to how much you get of it, for the cost of it, vs what a small tube of other stuff, could cost much more then a quarter lb of this stuff, with same or better results as I have seen testing it out. So before you post this stuff is crap, without ever trying it out for yourself, and saying this thread is crap, do what some of has tried, and apply it right, as if it is liquid metal, since it does conduct electricity, like some tim's on the market, and see for yourself, its cheap, and takes but a few minutes of your time applying it, and testing it, see if it will really work for you. And before you post that this stuff will turn to liquid, or dry up faster, you need to understand its working temp properties, for I think it exceeds standard tim, and will be testing it out to make sure, because under a automotive application, you apply it to much hotter sources on a car, and its there for years on end, and made NOT to dry up in that time, evaporate, and freeze, under much more extreme conditions, then putting on a cpu or gpu that doesnt come remotely close to what a gpu or cpu temp will ever get to to change its properties at all ;)

Im not endorsed in any way with any company to sell you this stuff, force you to buy and use it, or anything like that. Im just a guy, disabled, with some extra time on his hands, thats been doing computers since my very first when I was a kid, a vic 20, and trying all things under the sun, for fun and something to do in my spare time. I ove to post up, or mention my results, if I feel they are valid, and think it would benefit others as well in the process, nothing more. Take it as that, if you want to try it too, cool, post your results good or bad, if not thats fine too, but if not, please dont thread crap in here as if you know better then what I have done, or dont understand its properties and make up, before you think of posting. I and other have tried it so far and have confirmed my results and theirs as well. Also if you trying it and find it worse then what you are using, post those results!!! Id love to know whats better then what I have found or bought, for I want, and need, my stuff to last as long as it will by keeping it as cool as I can, and not afraid to try something new at all, even, like this stuff, it wasnt made for a "cpu" at all, but tried it anyway and found it to work.The only thing left at this point is in time, is it really going to change its make up at all, though according to the manufactures, its will take some serious heat before it will, and since its applied in automotive, in extreme weather, and much hotter temps, its designed not to change when years latter you remove plugs, wheel nuts (which will get hotter then a head, because the friction from brake being applied, will transfer into the wheel nuts, on and off).

Sorry for the book, and my grammars nut beings good, my edumacations system fell on my as childs, and wasnt tought properties. My bads, and thanks for sticking with it if you read all that craps :O If you know of other stuff and would like me to try it, LMK, and I have no problem at all trying other stuff out, for my own curiosity, and something to do and test out for fun :D
 
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