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Input lag is killing me

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Watch this entire thing be a fan orientation issue all along.

OP, you might wanna check how everything is pushing air.
I know how everything it's working, I can't explain how cause it's a little bit complicated, but I don't have any problems with that. My problems are the BSOD and the input lag, nothing to do with the fan orientation, also I'll test and see if the same lag persists on CSGO. We're literally focusing on the wrong think, I just wanted to show how the final result look.
 

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Yeah, that weird fan orientation can cause things to overheat like VRMs, RAM modules and so on.

explaining how its working isnt correct... it's not designed to work that way.

Do you have fans on the front of the case? what way are they facing?
 
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Yeah, that weird fan orientation can cause things to overheat like VRMs, RAM modules and so on.

explaining how its working isnt correct... it's not designed to work that way.

Do you have fans on the front of the case? what way are they facing?
The RGB fans that you see on the picture are the ones in the front of the case. I have two Cougars on the top and one Macube that came with the case on the back of the case. I know that wrong fan orientation can cause overheating, but my problems weren't being caused by high temperature, and you guys said that the fans running on the Turbo mode, which is not the fastest one, reaching 60ºC is actually normal. I just need to confirm the orientation, because I'm not a home rn
 
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there are more components than just a cpu/gpu that produce heat,
having stuff not setup properly means it can possibly be the reason,
and until you fixed it, there is no way of knowing if it doesnt.

you want the airflow enter front/low, and exhaust rear/top.
so mount the rad on the top, fans pulling air out of the case, front fans blowing cold air in.
this way motherboard/ram/vrm etc get more airflow, and the lower case temps (radiator is dumping the cpu heat outside the case).

AI suite is some of the worst crap you can use.
make sure to turn off Ai-suite update in bios, and switch on cool&quiet,
setup fan curve to std/normal, no need to run fans on full speed..

unless something else hw, i recommend doing a quick scan with superantispyware and kaspersky virus scanner (no need to get antivirus sw),
and unless something was broken, i only saw (change) in input lag with messed up install (os/drivers), or updates causing it.

i would take the pc offline (unplug Ethernet), leave only the OS drive connected and install win (delete partitions),
then MB/sata/gpu drivers, then a game or two and start testing.
this will show if its related to an update etc..
 
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there are more components than just a cpu/gpu that produce heat,
having stuff not setup properly means it can possibly be the reason,
and until you fixed it, there is no way of knowing if it doesnt.

you want the airflow enter front/low, and exhaust rear/top.
so mount the rad on the top, fans pulling air out of the case, front fans blowing cold air in.
this way motherboard/ram/vrm etc get more airflow, and the lower case temps (radiator is dumping the cpu heat outside the case).

AI suite is some of the worst crap you can use.
make sure to turn off Ai-suite update in bios, and switch on cool&quiet,
setup fan curve to std/normal, no need to run fans on full speed..

unless something else hw, i recommend doing a quick scan with superantispyware and kaspersky virus scanner (no need to get antivirus sw),
and unless something was broken, i only saw (change) in input lag with messed up install (os/drivers), or updates causing it.

i would take the pc offline (unplug Ethernet), leave only the OS drive connected and install win (delete partitions),
then MB/sata/gpu drivers, then a game or two and start testing.
this will show if its related to an update etc..
Well when I changed my SSD, I only installed the Steam, Games and Geforce experience. And I didn't have any problem at all. And now after putting the old SSd back and the new Watercooler, I've been using the PC for about 3 days without any problem. Now I have to do some test on CSGO and check if the input lag stopped, but the BSOD and the pc turning off didn't happen since monday. I used Malwarebytes and didn't find any problem, I'll check if I still have this problem, if I do, then I can use Kaspersky and Superantispyware. About the airflow, I don't think is a problem at all. The only problem about the thing you said is to exhaust on top, but my desk it's not so big, and as you can see the case is just a little below the table, that's why I prefer to exhaust on front or the back of the case. But if you guys think it's a problem then I can change later, but not rn...
 

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Well when I changed my SSD, I only installed the Steam, Games and Geforce experience. And I didn't have any problem at all. And now after putting the old SSd back and the new Watercooler, I've been using the PC for about 3 days without any problem. Now I have to do some test on CSGO and check if the input lag stopped, but the BSOD and the pc turning off didn't happen since monday. I used Malwarebytes and didn't find any problem, I'll check if I still have this problem, if I do, then I can use Kaspersky and Superantispyware. About the airflow, I don't think is a problem at all. The only problem about the thing you said is to exhaust on top, but my desk it's not so big, and as you can see the case is just a little below the table, that's why I prefer to exhaust on front or the back of the case. But if you guys think it's a problem then I can change later, but not rn...
At this point, the more normalized your build is to standard, the easier it is to help figure out what's wrong. An overheating VRM can cause issues too.
 
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At this point, the more normalized your build is to standard, the easier it is to help figure out what's wrong. An overheating VRM can cause issues too.
What is the highest temperature it can reach without being consider as overheating? I will play some Valorant and maybe do some livestreams today and I can tell you guys what is the highest point it reached.
 

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What is the highest temperature it can reach without being consider as overheating? I will play some Valorant and maybe do some livestreams today and I can tell you guys what is the highest point it reached.
Personally, I've had different temps do different things. Some people say different things and it gets confusing after a bit.

I'd have intake front, exhaust top and back per standard, and go from there so it removes that factor. Tried and true.

No one here will bash how you build it. This is all a learning experience for old and new. Some builds need some weird love, like I've got one where all but the top are intake since the radiators are on top and the case has vent panels.
 
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i suspect temp issues coming from ram, possibly even before the vrms.

its not so much about what we like or not, but excluding things.
the less things are "different", the easier it is to spot the cause.
and as long as the rad heat is not blown inside the case, it should be ok for now,
but cold air stays at the bottom, so the lower your air intake, the colder the air,
especially if the case sits on the floor.
 
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i suspect temp issues coming from ram, possibly even before the vrms.

its not so much about what we like or not, but excluding things.
the less things are "different", the easier it is to spot the cause.
and as long as the rad heat is not blown inside the case, it should be ok for now,
but cold air stays at the bottom, so the lower your air intake, the colder the air,
especially if the case sits on the floor.
Why would there be thermal issues with the RAM? DIMMs consume 1-2W at normal clocks and voltages, and we have no reason to suspect the OP is running their RAM at extreme voltages. Corsair Dominator DIMMs also have more than sufficient heatsinks. Heck, 1.35V DDR4 doesn't need heatsinks at all. The only situations I've heard of modern RAM causing issues due to thermals is with people pushing Samsung B-die to very high clocks at >1.5V, and even then most people report success running bare sticks (no heatsinks) with a fan blowing across them).

As for the OP's airflow layout, it's rather weird (and massively negative pressure given that both the top and front fans are exhausts), but it's probably fine overall. The worst offender, though, is that sole top intake fan, which will mostly be taking in hot air exhausted by its neighbours. Which ... no. Just no. Adjacent fans need to blow in the same direction. All fans on any single surface should be working together, not against each other. If you want your front RGB fans as exhausts, that's fine overall, but make sure there is sufficient air intake to make up for it. Make all your top fans intakes, or just remove them outright and let the radiator fans pull in the air they need. Fans at the rear/top rear are useful for ensuring airflow over the CPU socket area, VRMs and RAM, but the two front fans can probably be removed outright.

I still don't think this is enough to cause issues (again, unless the OP is running some extreme CPU OC it's unlikely that the VRMs come anywhere close to their ~120°C tolerance), but it's definitely a weird layout.


Btw, the main reason for the conventional airflow path being in through the front, out through the top/rear has nothing to do with either a front exhaust not working or this somehow being better alingned with convection (even the weakest fan will overpower any convection 100% of the time), but with the simple fact that the front of the PC is typically oriented towards the user, and having anywhere from 150W to 5-600W of heat exhausted towards you while sitting at your PC is pretty damn uncomfortable. Rear/upwards airflow allows the hot air to diffuse into the ambient air without directly hitting the user first.
 

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My rams running at 55C here just because the GPU is dumping heat onto the sticks, WITH a fan on them
it's something to consider, and we're seeing a system with weird issues

since he replaced the cooler things got better, so its something he changed that fixed it... and the weird fan setup might well be part of that
 
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My rams running at 55C here just because the GPU is dumping heat onto the sticks, WITH a fan on them
it's something to consider, and we're seeing a system with weird issues

since he replaced the cooler things got better, so its something he changed that fixed it... and the weird fan setup might well be part of that
...and 55°C is a problem for your RAM? If so, I would be worried about its fundamental stability, as that is not warm whatsoever. Yes, high-clocked high voltage B-die does like to stay at or below 50°C, but most RAM can handle much, much higher temperatures than that.
 
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Well I don’t know much about all this temperature stuff, I can study that more, but I really don’t think it’s a problem in my case. And about the input lag on CSGO it seems like it stopped, just like the BSOD and the problem with the fans. I’ve been using it for about a week now without any problems, I’ll keep using it to see if something happens, but if it’s fixed I don’t have ideia what was causing the problem. I was thinking maybe something related to my 1080Ti which has 2 energy cables connected to the power supply, and I was using just one, and know when I was changing the water cooler I decided to use another cable. So maybe that was causing the problem, I don’t know if this can or has anything to do with the input lag, but with the BSOD I’m 90% sure. Also I decided to keep AÍ Suite 3 to check the temperatures, but if I start having any problems will be the first thing I will check. But my friend used it for about 7 months without any problems...
 
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Well I don’t know much about all this temperature stuff, I can study that more, but I really don’t think it’s a problem in my case. And about the input lag on CSGO it seems like it stopped, just like the BSOD and the problem with the fans. I’ve been using it for about a week now without any problems, I’ll keep using it to see if something happens, but if it’s fixed I don’t have ideia what was causing the problem. I was thinking maybe something related to my 1080Ti which has 2 energy cables connected to the power supply, and I was using just one, and know when I was changing the water cooler I decided to use another cable. So maybe that was causing the problem, I don’t know if this can or has anything to do with the input lag, but with the BSOD I’m 90% sure. Also I decided to keep AÍ Suite 3 to check the temperatures, but if I start having any problems will be the first thing I will check. But my friend used it for about 7 months without any problems...
Wow, okay. Uhm, that's the kind of thing you a) tell people about when troubleshooting, and b) don't do. You're lucky (or perhaps not?) that the GPU would run at all with just a single power cable connected, the downside of that is that you've been running that cable (or the PCIe slot in your motherboard) significantly above its rated power delivery. A 1080 Ti is a 250W GPU. Thanks to GPU Boost 2.0 it will stick closely to that limit unless bottlenecked by something else. A single 8-pin PCIe power connector is rated for 150W (6-pin wires are 75W). The PCIe slot can also deliver ~75W, though that's across 3.3V and 12V, with ~65W the actual rating for its 12V rail. That means that with your current setup, if the GPU consumes 250W, one of the two must be out of spec. Best case scenario, it draws the extra power from the power wiring, and the wiring is overbuilt enough for it to be an issue. But that's the best case scenario.

A middle-of-the-road scenario is power throttling, i.e. that the GPU is throttling down due to insufficient power delivery. This can be due to voltage droop, from the GPU sensing that too few power cables are connected, or other on-board sensors. This is especially likely with weak or insufficient wiring, as insufficient wiring will lead to cables warming up, which increases resistance and thus voltage drop over the cable, leading to the GPU getting a lower voltage delivered than it needs. This will cause the GPU to clock down to protect the VRMs and power delivery. It's not unlikely that this is your issue.

It's also worth noting that if your power cables have been running hot over time, the insulation will deteriorate and turn stiff and brittle. This can cause it to crack and create shorts. Check your cabling. It might be dangerous.

Just as an FIY, here are some of the possible worst-case scenarios from a setup overloading the power delivery:
-Burning out the 12V input in the PCIe slot of the GPU, likely killing the GPU
-Burning out the 12V delivery in the PCIe slot of the motherboard, likely killing the motherboard (and possibly taking the CPU with it)
-Melting the insulation on your PCIe wire or melting its connector, whether on the CPU or GPU side. Melted insulation leads to short circuits, which lead to either blown fuses (good-ish), killing your PSU (less good), or a full-blown fire (yes, that's bad).

Some motherboards have unnecessary power inputs for the CPU - any AM4 platform with more than an 8-pin EPS, for example, as getting Ryzen above even 200w is nearly impossible unless you're doing LN2 OC - but GPUs generally want and need all the power connectors on them. If you have an extreme edition GPU with three 8-pin PCIe power connectors but run it at stock it's likely fine with just two, but anything with two power connectors should have both connected. And they should each be getting power from separate cables from the PSU.
 
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Wow, okay. Uhm, that's the kind of thing you a) tell people about when troubleshooting, and b) don't do. You're lucky (or perhaps not?) that the GPU would run at all with just a single power cable connected, the downside of that is that you've been running that cable (or the PCIe slot in your motherboard) significantly above its rated power delivery. A 1080 Ti is a 250W GPU. Thanks to GPU Boost 2.0 it will stick closely to that limit unless bottlenecked by something else. A single 8-pin PCIe power connector is rated for 150W (6-pin wires are 75W). The PCIe slot can also deliver ~75W, though that's across 3.3V and 12V, with ~65W the actual rating for its 12V rail. That means that with your current setup, if the GPU consumes 250W, one of the two must be out of spec. Best case scenario, it draws the extra power from the power wiring, and the wiring is overbuilt enough for it to be an issue. But that's the best case scenario.

A middle-of-the-road scenario is power throttling, i.e. that the GPU is throttling down due to insufficient power delivery. This can be due to voltage droop, from the GPU sensing that too few power cables are connected, or other on-board sensors. This is especially likely with weak or insufficient wiring, as insufficient wiring will lead to cables warming up, which increases resistance and thus voltage drop over the cable, leading to the GPU getting a lower voltage delivered than it needs. This will cause the GPU to clock down to protect the VRMs and power delivery. It's not unlikely that this is your issue.

It's also worth noting that if your power cables have been running hot over time, the insulation will deteriorate and turn stiff and brittle. This can cause it to crack and create shorts. Check your cabling. It might be dangerous.

Just as an FIY, here are some of the possible worst-case scenarios from a setup overloading the power delivery:
-Burning out the 12V input in the PCIe slot of the GPU, likely killing the GPU
-Burning out the 12V delivery in the PCIe slot of the motherboard, likely killing the motherboard (and possibly taking the CPU with it)
-Melting the insulation on your PCIe wire or melting its connector, whether on the CPU or GPU side. Melted insulation leads to short circuits, which lead to either blown fuses (good-ish), killing your PSU (less good), or a full-blown fire (yes, that's bad).

Some motherboards have unnecessary power inputs for the CPU - any AM4 platform with more than an 8-pin EPS, for example, as getting Ryzen above even 200w is nearly impossible unless you're doing LN2 OC - but GPUs generally want and need all the power connectors on them. If you have an extreme edition GPU with three 8-pin PCIe power connectors but run it at stock it's likely fine with just two, but anything with two power connectors should have both connected. And they should each be getting power from separate cables from the PSU.
I'm so sorry for not telling this before, it's because I didn't remember, also when I build the PC I made that way, and only after some months this problems started. Anyway thank you so much for the help, I'll check about the cables, but the GPU seems to be working really fine. Also I'll continue using the PC and see if any of the other problems start to happen again. but it's probably something related to the cable. And @walker1989 could you fix your problem? Now that I "fixed" mine we can help you more
 
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@Lkzz
you dont wanna swap cables on psus, unless its the same brand and build (corsair doesnt make them).
just having a unit with more/less output (e.g. 650w vs 850w) might have different layout on pins etc,
and you risk taking out hw.
and while i like asus, virtually everyone has had at least minor issues with AI suite (doing things on its own),
that might interfere with your setup.
just because someone has no trouble using it, doesn't mean much,
like there are ppl driving for 50y without a crash, and others have 10 in their first year...


@Valantar
do you KNOW what voltages its running at? do you KNOW temps are on the ram?
when there is an issue, i assume the worst case, until i have info telling me otherwise.

sure good vrms do 120. when they are new (and top quality).
these aren't, and degradation (age) and temps will impact performance, so the limit can easily drop to below 100C,
and with improper airflow a very possible issue (again, until i see temps showing its not).

like most psus these days, this is a single (12V) rail unit, so using one or more cables for the gpu is making no difference (using 2 plugs),
and my 750 has no trouble feeding a 2080S (over 250w draw) with just one.
then again, my stuff is under water and temps (no matter which one) are 30-40*C lower, helping with efficiency.
 
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and I was using just one
yeah, as @Valantar said, that’s a big no-no. That could’ve been the issue all along. I guess not figuring that out is sort of on us for not asking about GPU power cables or a picture of the system.

Also I decided to keep AÍ Suite 3 to check the temperatures
Use HWInfo64 for temperature monitoring. If you need fan control, set a curve in the BIOS. I recall you saying you like to crank the fans up when you’re gaming. You could set a fan curve in BIOS linked to overall system temp so when your GPU starts working hard and heating up the entire system, your case fans will ramp up.
 
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@Valantar
do you KNOW what voltages its running at? do you KNOW temps are on the ram?
when there is an issue, i assume the worst case, until i have info telling me otherwise.
That's not a bad assumption, but going from the rest of this thread, the OP isn't overclocking heavily. I frankly wouldn't be surprised to find XMP wasn't even enabled. It is of course possible, but I don't find it likely.
like most psus these days, this is a single (12V) rail unit, so using one or more cables for the gpu is making no difference (using 2 plugs),
and my 750 has no trouble feeding a 2080S (over 250w draw) with just one.
then again, my stuff is under water and temps (no matter which one) are 30-40*C lower, helping with efficiency.
It seems you've got something mixed up about how voltage drop through cables works. It has no relation to the number of 12V rails in the PSU, but purely depends on the amperage going through a given gauge of wiring. If you're feeding 250W-65W for the PCIe slot=185W = 15.4A@12V through the PCIe cables, there will always be less drop if that power travels through two sets of wiring rather than one. Of course many PSU makers supply cables with two 6+2-pin connectors on just one strand of wiring, which is pretty sad, as it's a really bad way of wiring things up. Whether the 16A in question travel through three or six pairs of wire (for some inane reason the 8-pin PCIe cable only has three 12V wires, with the two extra over the six-pin both being ground) can potentially make a significant difference in what voltage arrives at the GPU end of the wire. If the wires are long, thin gauge, or otherwise poor quality, voltage drop over cables can be significant. Hence why some high end PSUs use voltage sensing wires to compensate for this by measuring the GPU-side voltage and compensating on the PSU side).

As for efficiency, that doesn't matter here - 250W, or let's say 16A, is 16A no matter if your GPU is using it efficiently or wasting it as heat. And if you're feeding your GPU that amount of power through just a single 8-pin, then you're exceeding the spec of that connector. Again, the wiring might be sufficiently overbuilt to handle it, but that's in no way guaranteed.

sure good vrms do 120. when they are new (and top quality).
these aren't, and degradation (age) and temps will impact performance, so the limit can easily drop to below 100C,
and with improper airflow a very possible issue (again, until i see temps showing its not).
I've never heard of the temperature tolerance of MOSFETs or chokes degrading over time. The hardware itself might degrade, causing it to run less efficiently (i.e. hotter), or might fail outright, but I've never heard of the actual temperature spec changing. After all, the spec is just a number for "it'll last X hours at Y degrees", and looking at the datasheets of these parts they typically have specs for a wide range of temperatures. And besides, you'd need really shitty VRM cooling to hit >100°C unless you're doing heavy overclocking. We know the OP is not. VRM throttling is of course still a candidate for the core of the issue here, but it seems unlikely. And the OP's motherboard has plenty of VRM cooling for normal operation, and a complete overkill VRM setup - again, unless you're doing heavy overclocking.
 

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Personally, if he's getting blue screens and ram is fine, I would check the storage media next with a smart test.

The one I use (hdd sentinel) is commercial trialware, but the free trial should be good enough to figure out if a drive is failing or not

Actually has the ability to repair too. Which it was not to long ago a HDD which made the PC crawl as it was that bad that program actually fixed it by just running though the surface scan. Went from 69% back to 100% ( of course it's not worthy any more but still ).

Which after fixing the bootsector i was able to get my data from it.

The drive had been sitting around for a good while as i was planing to take the magnets out of it as my old intel 3770 could not handle what ever was going with it, i just thought i would try it again.

Uled.jpg




Get a big 24 inch fan blowing inside the PC and see if it's still does it, just keep it like 6 inches away from the PC.
 
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@Valantar
never recommended to use just one cable, but the fact that my RM750 ran my 2080S without even triggering my "bad/low power" led on the board (while pulling +250w),
meaning the ti should be fine running on one cable as well.
(im just questioning info from someone, giving advice to open a support ticket with driver request,
for higher end hw that came out 4y ago, meaning if the board/drivers would be responsible for the issue,
as this would have been a much more widespread issue, and found/fixed much earlier.
or your recommendation of memtest, which can ran for 2 days and find nothing, when others like HCI found errors within 1h.)

@AsRock
sorry, a pure "scan" will not fix a defective drive, and as OP has a ssd, that virtually makes it impossible to fix/recover by sw,
as storage is random, not (almost) continuously like on hdd.
drives were already tested with crystal disk info, and defective drive disconnected,
and issues continued after, so ...
 
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Hey guys, seems like the problem is really fixed. Now I've been using my PC for about a week and without any problems. The input lag on CSGO, the BSOD and the problem where the fans still running after turning the PC off. I'm just waiting for some days to see if the problem is really solved. And about the temperature and the fans position, I don't think it's a problem rn. The temperature is about 40ºC while playing with the fans on the Turbo mode, not even the Fast speed. And I really think that what was causing the problem was all this GPU cable and energy stuff. I remember that sometimes when I tried to turn my PC on, after clicking the power button, it used to turn on for about 1 second, then turn off, and after 2 seconds it could really turn on, and for me this is something related to the energy, but I might be wrong, do you guys want me to do any more tests just make it clear?
 

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Hey guys, seems like the problem is really fixed. Now I've been using my PC for about a week and without any problems. The input lag on CSGO, the BSOD and the problem where the fans still running after turning the PC off. I'm just waiting for some days to see if the problem is really solved. And about the temperature and the fans position, I don't think it's a problem rn. The temperature is about 40ºC while playing with the fans on the Turbo mode, not even the Fast speed. And I really think that what was causing the problem was all this GPU cable and energy stuff. I remember that sometimes when I tried to turn my PC on, after clicking the power button, it used to turn on for about 1 second, then turn off, and after 2 seconds it could really turn on, and for me this is something related to the energy, but I might be wrong, do you guys want me to do any more tests just make it clear?
that on/off/on thing is an error with bad BIOS settings failing to POST and kind of important

glad its fixed, but there has been so much important information throughout this you never shared
 
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that on/off/on thing is an error with bad BIOS settings failing to POST and kind of important

glad its fixed, but there has been so much important information throughout this you never shared
Yeah some of then I thought would be useless for us, because I thought that would be something related to windows, because doens't make any sense the problem envolving energy and just one game having this Input lag issue. And I need to update the BIOS, and haven't since I put the new watercooler, will try to do tomorrow. Also is there any more tests that I can do? I remember someone said on a few pages before, but I can't find it...
 
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@Valantar
never recommended to use just one cable, but the fact that my RM750 ran my 2080S without even triggering my "bad/low power" led on the board (while pulling +250w),
meaning the ti should be fine running on one cable as well.
(im just questioning info from someone, giving advice to open a support ticket with driver request,
for higher end hw that came out 4y ago, meaning if the board/drivers would be responsible for the issue,
as this would have been a much more widespread issue, and found/fixed much earlier.
or your recommendation of memtest, which can ran for 2 days and find nothing, when others like HCI found errors within 1h.)
Which bad/low power LEDs? On the motherboard? What do those indicate? I would think a low 12V voltage, which they wouldn't necessarily notice given that the motherboard isn't connected to the out-of-spec PCIe power cable. Voltage drop over one cable doesn't affect voltages on other cables connected to the same source after all. And something not giving explicit errors is not the same as it working properly or being safe long-term. This depends on a whole host of factors (for example PSU wire gauge and length) which we can't know. Adhering to specifications unless you really know what you're doing is thus the only sensible approach.
Also, HCI? What's that?
 

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ive had this problem for as long as i can remember... tried just about every "fix" there is on the internet, most of which work for a short period of time, just to revert back to the lag. ive discovered over the 100 or so "fixes" that its most likely an issue with the game itself. If i play on a new account, the game runs 100x better, hit reg issues are gone, that lag you describe is gone, the game suddenly becomes playable and other players dont seem so inhuman with their response times and aim. its short lived however, if i keep playing on that account, the lag comes back eventually.. ive never been able to isolate what it is that causes so ive come to the conclusion that its done purposely in csgo, much like COD, to give newer players and advantage over older players.. call it leveling the playing field. there's got to be a way through it though, some people never have issues, and pro's don't either. not any more at least... there was a brief period of time when the game came out they were all complaining about it, then for some reason, they just stopped. my guess is valve either flipped a switch on their end, or told them how to set up the game properly. *shrugs, ive given up hope on this subject, many people call it "placebo", and say to just "get good", its 100% not placebo... for some reason the only actual provable thing that's 100% consistent, is when this is happening, i obviously have an extremely difficult killing anyone, but any demo i record is corrupted and wont play back, at all. it only happens to demos i record when the lag is happening, any other time it works great.

PC SPECS:
i9-7940x
2080ti
32gb 4000 ddr4 ram
m2 SSD
asus aorus gaming pro 7 mobo
benq 240hz 1ms monitor


anyone with any fixes or ideas... pls tell
 
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