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[RAM] DDR4 3200 Mhz speed not working

That should be the AMD PSP 11.0 Device Driver. Download the latest chipset drivers from AMD's website and install them.

Dude! Thanks man I was looking so much that I just completely forgot when I made my new build I did not install AMD drivers. :mad:

I had only installed GPU drivers and just started gaming. I've kept my XMP profile on and its running at 3200mhz again. I will test some games tonight again to test its stability.
 
That should be the AMD PSP 11.0 Device Driver. Download the latest chipset drivers from AMD's website and install them.

They should also be in the C:/AMD directory. I am not at my PC at the moment to see which specifically.
 
Ok but what is that then? If not B-dies. Just asking!
And please, the real question was... are we (me and Provin915) have the same dies?? ...whatever they may be. That Part number in red square, refers to the dies?

The ic's can be from Samsung, but they are not the highest binned dies. The highest binned dies are considered B-dies and run the tightest timings. Dies can vary a/b/c/d etc. Dunno why the best are called "B" considering the alphabet...

Also, try checking out system information viewer (siv), its pulls a ton more useful info.
 
I reinstalled all my drivers and somehow I am geting frequent crashes on Mozilla Firefox. Before I never had these issues. When I turn off XMP 2.0, my RAM reverts back to 2133mhz and I have no problems with browsing and gaming. Whenever I turn XMP 2.0 on the crashes start. The voltage is set at 1.35V, but under the H/W monitor in BIOS the voltage jumps from 1.36 to 1.38 sometimes.

I read in another post, I can turn on XMP 2.0 and downgrade the speed until its stable.
 
Certain speed need certain voltages
 
I reinstalled all my drivers and somehow I am geting frequent crashes on Mozilla Firefox. Before I never had these issues. When I turn off XMP 2.0, my RAM reverts back to 2133mhz and I have no problems with browsing and gaming. Whenever I turn XMP 2.0 on the crashes start. The voltage is set at 1.35V, but under the H/W monitor in BIOS the voltage jumps from 1.36 to 1.38 sometimes.

I read in another post, I can turn on XMP 2.0 and downgrade the speed until its stable.

I'm not you but if I were, I'd return that memory and get some real b-dies and not ever worry about settings again.
 
I reinstalled all my drivers and somehow I am geting frequent crashes on Mozilla Firefox. Before I never had these issues. When I turn off XMP 2.0, my RAM reverts back to 2133mhz and I have no problems with browsing and gaming. Whenever I turn XMP 2.0 on the crashes start. The voltage is set at 1.35V, but under the H/W monitor in BIOS the voltage jumps from 1.36 to 1.38 sometimes.

I read in another post, I can turn on XMP 2.0 and downgrade the speed until its stable.

Can you post cpu-z memory and SPD tabs while running the system set all defaults please?
 
I'm not you but if I were, I'd return that memory and get some real b-dies and not ever worry about settings again.

Hmmm, that's always an option I guess. I have this beautiful white build with RGB and the Corsair's white RGB set just fits in so perfectly :P. But thanks for your advice.

Can you post cpu-z memory and SPD tabs while running the system set all defaults please?

I've enclosed both screenshots with my current settings (XMP profile on).

I was testing some games and this time I got a different BSOD. I've got a PFN_LIST_CORRUPT now.

-System scan sfc /scannow did not give any issues;
-Antivirus does not give issues (windows defender);
-Disabled microsoft onedrive;
-Don't have weird programs installled;
-Windows 10 pro 1903 newest updates installed;
-Updated all possible drivers;
-Gonna do hard disk scan (chkdsk /f).
 

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Well yea, I know it's a bit of restarting, but I need the default cpu-z memory tab right next to the SPD tab.

Betting the board doesn't like that memory. I'm curious which JDEC it posts with.

I mean 1066 at Cas 22 or 23 or 24 seems like very wild figures to me.

Got me some real cheap Corsair Hynix in the sig down there. I'm running Cas 12-15-15-32-70 2T. 1500+mhz 1.410v

You my friend get to go on a tweaking spree if 3200 isn't stable at 1.4000v.
EDIT:
Gotta add in the "proof" I'm doing this with Hynix Ram. It's just no good over this frequency lol.
 

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Hmmm, that's always an option I guess. I have this beautiful white build with RGB and the Corsair's white RGB set just fits in so perfectly :p. But thanks for your advice.

In the US, Newegg has your white RGB Pros on sale for $93usd. Real bonafide B-dies like the G.Skill F4-3200C15D-16GTZSW, which run timings of 14-14-14-34 which are roughly $30usd more at regular price. Is that $30usd worth the trouble you've been suffering thru? That's how I see it. What's my time and heartache worth?

 
My samsung 3600 sticks are 1800mhz 16-16-16-36-52 1.35v......

What defines "real" B-die memory?? lol. Really I'm asking, I don't really know.
I do know that different dates might have better samples, see this a lot in past processors.
Generally that hardware gets binned higher after testing, IE 4200mhz "real" B-die, just more capable?

Meh, he's just gotta tweak the memory up a bit and set a profile in the bios.
 
My samsung 3600 sticks are 1800mhz 16-16-16-36-52 1.35v......

What defines "real" B-die memory?? lol. Really I'm asking, I don't really know.
I do know that different dates might have better samples, see this a lot in past processors.
Generally that hardware gets binned higher after testing, IE 4200mhz "real" B-die, just more capable?

Meh, he's just gotta tweak the memory up a bit and set a profile in the bios.

The tight timings and they are matched. You have real ones. For ex. at 3200 they'd run 14-14-14-34 at 1T cmd rate. At 3600 they'd run 16-16-16-35 at 1T cmd rate. I actually have two sets of even higher binned B-dies that run 3600 15-15-15 at 1T.

You can tell off the bat by the timings.

And that's just the thing. You SHOULDN'T have to go thru this amount of tweaking when the maker advertises that it is compatible and on the QVL list. That's just false advertisement imo. Maybe its not worth it to some, shrugs. I make more than the difference in cost an hour so if I'm wasting hours tweaking this jacked ram to work, I'm losing money. hehe
 
The tight timings and they are matched. You have real ones. For ex. at 3200 they'd run 14-14-14-34 at 1T cmd rate. At 3600 they'd run 16-16-16-35 at 1T cmd rate. I actually have two sets of even higher binned B-dies that run 3600 15-15-15 at 1T.

You can tell off the bat by the timings.

I have another set of 4277 samsung sticks that are A1s. They clock 14-14-14 4000mhz 1.60v on 8700K all day. Cas 12 is shakey, Cas 13 is bench-able.
However these same sticks in my Ryzen setup do very different things lol. It's more a board and IMC limitation than it is with the memory itself.

Cas 22 at 1066 is way crazy. I'm willing to bet the board just doesn't like the memory at all. B-die or not. That's irrelevant.

He's going to tweak it the best he can. Be better at 3000mhz Cas 12 to 14 than 3200mhz Cas 16 or greater.
@ 3200mhz He could shoot for more voltage, or loosen Cas see if it helps. Perhaps try 2T command rate.
 
I have another set of 4277 samsung sticks that are A1s. They clock 14-14-14 4000mhz 1.60v on 8700K all day. Cas 12 is shakey, Cas 13 is bench-able.
However these same sticks in my Ryzen setup do very different things lol. It's more a board and IMC limitation than it is with the memory itself.

Cas 22 at 1066 is way crazy. I'm willing to bet the board just doesn't like the memory at all. B-die or not. That's irrelevant.

He's going to tweak it the best he can. Be better at 3000mhz Cas 12 to 14 than 3200mhz Cas 16 or greater.
@ 3200mhz He could shoot for more voltage, or loosen Cas see if it helps. Perhaps try 2T command rate.

If it is IMC/board then the latencies whould not matter. However the reality is that something is different between the tight timing ram and the loose ones. The sticks I have are all from my Intel builds. Was running B-dies before I even cared to know what B-dies were because I shopped for latencies not labels. When I dropped these Gskills into my Ryzen, they just worked. I did not have to jack around with anything, set docp and off it went.
 
I just finished the windows memory diagnostics test and it clearly says hardware problems detected. Everything works fine, all components are properly in their places all the cables etc. Perhaps I need to reinstall the RAM again?

Well yea, I know it's a bit of restarting, but I need the default cpu-z memory tab right next to the SPD tab.

Betting the board doesn't like that memory. I'm curious which JDEC it posts with.

I mean 1066 at Cas 22 or 23 or 24 seems like very wild figures to me.

Got me some real cheap Corsair Hynix in the sig down there. I'm running Cas 12-15-15-32-70 2T. 1500+mhz 1.410v

You my friend get to go on a tweaking spree if 3200 isn't stable at 1.4000v.
EDIT:
Gotta add in the "proof" I'm doing this with Hynix Ram. It's just no good over this frequency lol.

Sorry I have no experience with this RAM stuff. I honestly have little clue of what you're saying at the moment. How do I get the default cpuz memory tab? Do I need to go into BIOS and undo XMP?

In the US, Newegg has your white RGB Pros on sale for $93usd. Real bonafide B-dies like the G.Skill F4-3200C15D-16GTZSW, which run timings of 14-14-14-34 which are roughly $30usd more at regular price. Is that $30usd worth the trouble you've been suffering thru? That's how I see it. What's my time and heartache worth?


The money is not the issue for me honestly. I just like the aesthetics of the product and thought it was reliable. In all honesty, I can just turn off the XMP and let it run at 2133mhz; I don't see much difference, but I just have this feeling that it should work appropriately, you know?

My samsung 3600 sticks are 1800mhz 16-16-16-36-52 1.35v......

What defines "real" B-die memory?? lol. Really I'm asking, I don't really know.
I do know that different dates might have better samples, see this a lot in past processors.
Generally that hardware gets binned higher after testing, IE 4200mhz "real" B-die, just more capable?

Meh, he's just gotta tweak the memory up a bit and set a profile in the bios.

Alright, so how does the tweaking go in BIOS? I have never done something like this, so I want to properly follow a guide. I don't know much about RAM settings and such. Thank you for your patience though!
 

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I just finished the windows memory diagnostics test and it clearly says hardware problems detected. Everything works fine, all components are properly in their places all the cables etc. Perhaps I need to reinstall the RAM again?



Sorry I have no experience with this RAM stuff. I honestly have little clue of what you're saying at the moment. How do I get the default cpuz memory tab? Do I need to go into BIOS and undo XMP?



The money is not the issue for me honestly. I just like the aesthetics of the product and thought it was reliable. In all honesty, I can just turn off the XMP and let it run at 2133mhz; I don't see much difference, but I just have this feeling that it should work appropriately, you know?



Alright, so how does the tweaking go in BIOS? I have never done something like this, so I want to properly follow a guide. I don't know much about RAM settings and such. Thank you for your patience though!

Its only difficult at first.

But you might be stuck at a lower speed, 3200mhz should be running where you have it but....

Questions.

Do want to try and stabilize 3200mhz
Or
Do you want to try a lower speed and better timings.

Its a forum we got time lol
 
The money is not the issue for me honestly. I just like the aesthetics of the product and thought it was reliable. In all honesty, I can just turn off the XMP and let it run at 2133mhz; I don't see much difference, but I just have this feeling that it should work appropriately, you know?

You will see a difference at 2133.

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-zen-2-memory-performance-scaling-benchmark/

However, it does not mean that the memory is bad. It could very well be the CPU. If it was me, I would by some cheap ram and see if I could get it to run at the stated speed if I didn't have a friend I could swap with. Something like this: https://www.newegg.com/oloy-16gb-28...BMzsh6SHGDXyWIoPAAhoCuOMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
Why would you buy cheap ram to test with? If yer going to buy more ram to test with get the faster stuff. W/o spelling it out the ram he has are the cheaper stuff. The high latency mismatched timings are the lower binned chips. I see no sense in buying more low binned memory only to find that neither work. Get the fast stuff so you have two different levels of binned chips to compare.
 
Its only difficult at first.

But you might be stuck at a lower speed, 3200mhz should be running where you have it but....

Questions.

Do want to try and stabilize 3200mhz
Or
Do you want to try a lower speed and better timings.

Its a forum we got time lol

I want to get it stabilised at 3200mhz.

I have been playing TF2 for over 60 minutes now and it seems to be running stable. I haven't changed anything yet. Normally, it would have crashed already, though 30 minutes is still low. Haven't tested other games.
 
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Ok then you start by manually running 1.4v instead of 1.35v and test the stability. This would be the quickest possible way without having to mess with timings.

1.4v will be fine. Its only .05v over Docp rating and wont hurt your memory.

The second easiest way with the above if it doesnt work there, is to change the command rate from 1T to 2T. You will have to go into memory timings and set this manually. Everything else leave on auto. Look for CR or command rate in the timings menu.

These would be the the first things to try. You can do both meaning if the little extra voltage doesn't do it, then try 2T CR at 1.40v

If you're gaming 30 minutes, it's gotta be close to stable.
 
Ok then you start by manually running 1.4v instead of 1.35v and test the stability. This would be the quickest possible way without having to mess with timings.

1.4v will be fine. Its only .05v over Docp rating and wont hurt your memory.

The second easiest way with the above if it doesnt work there, is to change the command rate from 1T to 2T. You will have to go into memory timings and set this manually. Everything else leave on auto. Look for CR or command rate in the timings menu.

These would be the the first things to try. You can do both meaning if the little extra voltage doesn't do it, then try 2T CR at 1.40v

If you're gaming 30 minutes, it's gotta be close to stable.

Hmm I jinxed myself. I started Path of Exile and after 15 minutes I got a BSOD; memory management again! :(

Alright, so for now I've put the voltage to 1.4V. How do I test stability? Memtest?

I assume the second way is to go into the BIOS right? Where exactly can I find those information? Under DRAM?

It's 2AM right now, I'll get some good sleep and try again tomorrow. Thanks for your help and patience bro!
 
memtest or aida64 memory stress test in windows.

Memory is really tricky to stress test since it can feign stability for a LOOONG time before deciding to go 'nope.'

So i usually a few hours stress test in AIDA then play games, and leave the machine on for two weeks (once I decide i want to stability test it). A long time in windows also has a tendency to show instability even if memtest doesn't.

1573522330214.png
 
Hmmm, that's always an option I guess. I have this beautiful white build with RGB and the Corsair's white RGB set just fits in so perfectly :p. But thanks for your advice.
Not RGB, but white modules
 
Hi mate,

I had a very similar issue, it went away totally when I changed the GPU. Do you have the latest GPU drivers?
 
memtest or aida64 memory stress test in windows.

Memory is really tricky to stress test since it can feign stability for a LOOONG time before deciding to go 'nope.'

So i usually a few hours stress test in AIDA then play games, and leave the machine on for two weeks (once I decide i want to stability test it). A long time in windows also has a tendency to show instability even if memtest doesn't.

View attachment 136219

Hmmm alright, thank you for the suggestion. I will try out the memtest and post results.

Not RGB, but white modules

Thanks man, but I really want to keep my RGB set complete :P

Hi mate,

I had a very similar issue, it went away totally when I changed the GPU. Do you have the latest GPU drivers?

I initially had a Gigabyte 5700 XT OC but I swapped it out for a Sapphire 5700 XT Nitro+. I have no issues and the most recent drivers installed.

I did a memory diagnostics test again and this time I got received a message after the restart. Does this mean I have a faulty set of RAM or perhaps I didn't install it correctly? Also, running on 1.4V with XMP enabled. The thing is, if I just turn off XMP all the problems go away, however my RAM speed is clocked at 2133mhz then.
 

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