Unlocked Realtek HD Audio Drivers Windows 7 & 8 (With Dolby Digital Live and DTS Interactive)

[Whicker]

I currently have a quite complicated audio set up but I would like your advice on what I should be using and if this fix is worth it with my Asus MB with realtek ALC 892.

PC at one end of the room with 2.1 through front analog (Realtek front/rear different audio streams)
MB Optical out -> old Yamaha receiver -> 5.1 speakers at other end of room around TV.
HDMI from GTX 770 to TV at other end of room.

I have been using this set-up to play downloaded TV/Movies with DTS and DD AC3 tracks perfectly fine.
Recently I decided to start playing games on my Tv at the other end of the room and was obviously bummed out that pc games dont support DTS or DD.
So I tried this.

Motherboard analog outs 3.5mm to RCA cables --> Yamaha receiver Multi Channel Inputs -> 5.1

I tried it for movies and it sounded pretty good but I lost a lot of Bass from my sub, even with the realtek bass management and room correction +10db to sub it is still significantly less than DD of DTS.

Anyway my question is, am I better off sticking with my analog Multi ch audio or using this fix to get DTS connect working? Also which is the higher quality audio?

Thanks

 

[Jgr9]

I'm kind of surprised you lost bass (a little bit... except that Dolby loves to overdo bass). Analog is the better way to go generally. In your playback device properties through Windows, you don't have any Enhancements enabled, do you? Also, for analog you should have a "Configure Speakers" option when you right click on your Realtek "Speakers" output device. There you can make sure you have them set up properly, but you can also decide whether or not you want to use Full-range (large) or small speakers. Now, at first in my true surround sound headset, I noticed that I got more bass from the "subs" in the headphones if I set the other speakers to small. Having them set to small also allowed me to use an Enhancement called Bass Management as well. However, I didn't like how it sounded overall in the long run, and I set it back to all full-range.

If you were to go this modded route with optical, you lose audio quality, especially in the rear speakers, because Dolby and DTS have to compress it. Though, it isn't all that noticeable unless you're close to your rear speakers. But really, if you can get it configured correctly, analog is the better way to go.

If we were talking strictly optical, I prefer how DTS handles bass over Dolby. Dolby has bass everywhere, yet it ends up having a less bumpy bass in the sub. DTS leaves more of the bass for the sub and you can feel it more.

Analog with no enhancements, if set up right, is basically how your source is supposed to sound, but again, you got compression and quality loss with optical surround.

OR... if you can just do everything through HDMI to your receiver, then that's definitely the way to go (if everything cooperates).

But.... If you do end up using the modded drivers, if you hadn't seen already, the first post is outdated. Save yourself the trouble and use my instructions and modded file on pg 37 if you are on the 10586 (TH2) build of Windows 10 (earlier builds have completely broken Realtek surround and potentially newer Insider builds as well). I hope those instructions still work for W7/8 too.

Don't use the Realtek Audio Manager to change modded settings. Do it through Windows Playback Device settings.

 

[Whicker]

I'm kind of surprised you lost bass (a little bit). Analog is the better way to go generally. In your playback device properties through Windows, you don't have any Enhancements enabled, do you? Also, for analog you should have a "Configure Speakers" option when you right click on your Realtek "Speakers" output device. There you can make sure you have them set up properly, but you can also decide whether or not you want to use Full-range (large) or small speakers. Now, at first in my true surround sound headset, I noticed that I got more bass from the "subs" in the headphones if I set the other speakers to small. Having them set to small also allowed me to use an Enhancement called Bass Management as well. However, I didn't like how it sounded overall in the long run, and I set it back to all full-range.

If you were to go this modded route with optical, you lose audio quality, especially in the rear speakers, because Dolby and DTS have to compress it. Though, it isn't all that noticeable unless you're close to your rear speakers. But really, if you can get it configured correctly, analog is the better way to go.

If we were talking strictly optical, I prefer how DTS handles bass over Dolby. Dolby has bass everywhere, yet it ends up having a less bumpy bass in the sub. DTS leaves more of the bass for the sub and you can feel it more.

Analog with no enhancements, if set up right, is basically how your source is supposed to sound, but again, you got compression and quality loss with optical surround.

OR... if you can just do everything through HDMI to your receiver, then that's definitely the way to go (if everything cooperates).

The speakers are configured properly as 5.1 with no full range speakers (polk audio 6750). I have the Bass management enhancement enabled because I get no bass whatsoever with stereo with it disabled. In 5.1 streams the bass is the same or a little bit more with it it enabled. I also have the room correction enhancement enabled, with it i send an extra 10db to the sub to get even more out of it. Without the 10 db the sub is almost off :/.

I agree with you on the dts vs dolby, I too find DTS more enjoyable mostly because the bass.

I wish I could do everything through HDMI but unfortunately my receiver doesn't support it.

Thanks for the reply! I will be tinkering with the analog out. I might be able to further boost the sub on my receiver.

 

[Jgr9]

I would have no idea why you don't get any bass without the enhancement on in stereo. idk... Or that there's too many possible reasons. maybe the receiver isn't set correctly?

But try out what full-range does anyways, I'd say.

 

[Jugularkeijo]

I'll start by saying that i've been scrolling through forums for hours and hours now.

The problem: In my Advanced audio setting, i can't even see option to select DTS 5.1 - sound. Only 2-channels are listed. In some drivers i've tried, i managed to get option there, but it still wasn't working. Please someone, tell me which drivers should work or what should i do?

Note: When i open my Optical connection properties and Supported formats, testing DTS Audio works just fine.

My specs
Motherboard: Asus z170 Pro gaming / Realtek ALC1150
Connection: Toslink Optical
Speakers: Logitech z906

I'll be happy to answer questions or deliver more information about anything!

 

[Jgr9]

Did you try R2.79 drivers from the Realtek website with the R2.75 modded file and instructions from Pg 37?

Also, I noticed that you're in the "Digital Output" properties, not the "Digital Output(Optical)" properties. It should appear in both if you did it right and you're on Windows 10 build 10586. (Though I do wonder if this actually works for people with different Realtek ALC####s, but I haven't confirmed).

Anyways, if you're using optical, make sure you're in the correct optical device properties. If it's not optical, but the other digital one (I think it's a circular and maybe orange colored port?), then you're in the correct properties I think.

You're right, it's not appearing on yours, but did you try my pg 37 instructions?

 

[Whicker]

After multiple A/B comparisons between the analog out ports and Toslink ive determined that while the analog out might be uncompressed, my onboard sound card just doesn't really compare to my Yamaha receiver. The receiver has better bass, channel separation, and just overall sounds better. In any case I managed to get the driver fix to work but it wasn't with your instructions on page 37 (maybe I didn't do it right), although I did use your R2.75 file.

Anyway Jugularkeijo, you might have success with the method I used.

-Download the R2.79 drivers from Realtek here (grab the zip file version or the 64bit exe if you have 7zip installed cause its smaller)
-Also grab the R2.75 file from Jgr9's post on page 37 here.
-Extract the R2.79 driver and copy/replace the R2.75 file into the newly extracted Vista64 folder.
-Uninstall your current realtek drivers
-Follow these instructions to disable driver enforcement
-Once you are in windows with driver enforcement disabled run the setup.exe in your extracted R2.79 folder and proceed with the setup
-Click "I want to restart later" at the end of the installer
-click start, type in "regedit" without quotes. Go to "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Audio". Right click > new > DWORD (32bit) "DisableProtectedAudioDG" and set it to 1.
-Restart and it should now work.

My question for Jgr9

With the method I used, will it stop working at any point? Windows updates and such.

 

[Jgr9]

I'm not as familiar with that method exactly, but it probably accomplishes about the same thing, just maybe in a different manner. But yes, there's a good chance that in a major Windows 10 update (or to a new build), Windows will re-install the audio drivers, but of course without this modification. So you'll have to do it again when that happens.

Question, you aren't forced to use Test Mode are you?

Anyways, I tried a method pretty similar to that before, but after a couple reboots, it again blocked the driver from working, at least with how I did it. So I had more luck with the updated M1 method. No Test Mode and no disabling Driver Signature Enforcement needed. Just the registry edit.

 

[Whicker]

I'm not as familiar with that method exactly, but it probably accomplishes about the same thing, just maybe in a different manner. But yes, there's a good chance that in a major Windows 10 update (or to a new build), Windows will re-install the audio drivers, but of course without this modification. So you'll have to do it again when that happens.

Question, you aren't forced to use Test Mode are you?

Nope, not even sure what test mode is. What I did was exactly what I posted. I am running win 10 pro build 10586. One thing I also noticed, if you enable DTS interactive in default format but have "disable all sound effects" under the enhancements tab checked, DTS interactive may give you the test tone failure msg. That may be the reason I thought your method was not working, regardless it is working great now .

 

[Jgr9]

Really?.... Interesting. Some people were saying it was the other way around when debugging all the W10 surround sound issues.

 

[Whicker]

Sigh.. Just found out that Netflix no longer works with the disable protected audio registry fix .

 

[Jgr9]

No longer?

 

[Whicker]

No longer?

Netflix worked fine before i did the driver fix, it is the registry entry that messes it up.

See here.

 

[Jgr9]

Holy crap it directly references the registry entry.... (impressed and saddened).

Sorry, I still don't use Netflix yet and had no idea. Crap.... that's rather interesting, and extremely annoying. I'm not sure what to do with that. If it wasn't that specific issue I might have suggested changing a Firefox or Chrome setting as a potential problem (if you were using those) or trying out the Windows app.

I don't know what you're using, but you could still try the app or something, but it could still look for the registry edit. (Edit: Looks like the Windows app won't work either).

Dang, sorry.....

I mean, maybe you don't need the registry edit if you used Test Mode (I'm not completely sure), but Test Mode also causes its own issues (for example with ARMA's anticheat system. )

 

[Whicker]

Holy crap it directly references the registry entry.... (impressed and saddened).

Sorry, I still don't use Netflix yet and had no idea. Crap.... that's rather interesting, and extremely annoying. I'm not sure what to do with that. If it wasn't that specific issue I might have suggested changing a Firefox or Chrome setting as a potential problem (if you were using those) or trying out the Windows app.

I don't know what you're using, but you could still try the app or something, but it could still look for the registry edit. (Edit: Looks like the Windows app won't work either).

Dang, sorry.....

I mean, maybe you don't need the registry edit if you used Test Mode (I'm not completely sure), but Test Mode also causes its own issues (for example with ARMA's anticheat system. )

I used the windows store app since it has 5.1 dolby. I was pretty excited to have it working today then got kicked in the nuts after trying to watch some netflix before bed. I dont really feel like doing the test mode thing so I guess its back to analog in games for now. Man Fallout 4 sounded so good too.

 

[Jugularkeijo]

Did you try R2.79 drivers from the Realtek website with the R2.75 modded file and instructions from Pg 37?

Also, I noticed that you're in the "Digital Output" properties, not the "Digital Output(Optical)" properties. It should appear in both if you did it right and you're on Windows 10 build 10586. (Though I do wonder if this actually works for people with different Realtek ALC####s, but I haven't confirmed).

Anyways, if you're using optical, make sure you're in the correct optical device properties. If it's not optical, but the other digital one (I think it's a circular and maybe orange colored port?), then you're in the correct properties I think.

You're right, it's not appearing on yours, but did you try my pg 37 instructions?

After multiple A/B comparisons between the analog out ports and Toslink ive determined that while the analog out might be uncompressed, my onboard sound card just doesn't really compare to my Yamaha receiver. The receiver has better bass, channel separation, and just overall sounds better. In any case I managed to get the driver fix to work but it wasn't with your instructions on page 37 (maybe I didn't do it right), although I did use your R2.75 file.

Anyway Jugularkeijo, you might have success with the method I used.

-Download the R2.79 drivers from Realtek here (grab the zip file version or the 64bit exe if you have 7zip installed cause its smaller)
-Also grab the R2.75 file from Jgr9's post on page 37 here.
-Extract the R2.79 driver and copy/replace the R2.75 file into the newly extracted Vista64 folder.
-Uninstall your current realtek drivers
-Follow these instructions to disable driver enforcement
-Once you are in windows with driver enforcement disabled run the setup.exe in your extracted R2.79 folder and proceed with the setup
-Click "I want to restart later" at the end of the installer
-click start, type in "regedit" without quotes. Go to "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Audio". Right click > new > DWORD (32bit) "DisableProtectedAudioDG" and set it to 1.
-Restart and it should now work.

My question for Jgr9

With the method I used, will it stop working at any point? Windows updates and such.

Awesome guys!!! Thank you both so much! Could not first believe it, but with your instruction i managed to get it work!

Have a great day, you just made mine!!

 

[Irenicus]

I currently have a quite complicated audio set up but I would like your advice on what I should be using and if this fix is worth it with my Asus MB with realtek ALC 892.

PC at one end of the room with 2.1 through front analog (Realtek front/rear different audio streams)
MB Optical out -> old Yamaha receiver -> 5.1 speakers at other end of room around TV.
HDMI from GTX 770 to TV at other end of room.

I have been using this set-up to play downloaded TV/Movies with DTS and DD AC3 tracks perfectly fine.
Recently I decided to start playing games on my Tv at the other end of the room and was obviously bummed out that pc games dont support DTS or DD.
So I tried this.

Motherboard analog outs 3.5mm to RCA cables --> Yamaha receiver Multi Channel Inputs -> 5.1

I tried it for movies and it sounded pretty good but I lost a lot of Bass from my sub, even with the realtek bass management and room correction +10db to sub it is still significantly less than DD of DTS.

Anyway my question is, am I better off sticking with my analog Multi ch audio or using this fix to get DTS connect working? Also which is the higher quality audio?

Thanks

Short answer : A BIG YES! DTS is far better than analog or DDL!

I had the same issue mate, having a high end sound system I can't stand when quality is below par. Yes the lack of bass is quite normal, and I hated having to crank the sub volume up more while using analog (on the actual sub itself, which is huge and has a lot of headroom to increase volume, but this involved me leaning behind it to reach for the volume knob and also adjusting the crossover a little, which is annoying as when I have it set correctly, phase and all, I don't like to touch it again unless i really have to like when some movies have really overly done bass etc )

and yes, using DTS interactive alleviates this problem. it also gives sound more dynamic range, just like when you watch a DVD so it's worth doing this procedure with these drivers to get the best out of your hardware when you play games! Cheers from fellow sound lover

After multiple A/B comparisons between the analog out ports and Toslink ive determined that while the analog out might be uncompressed, my onboard sound card just doesn't really compare to my Yamaha receiver. The receiver has better bass, channel separation, and just overall sounds better. In any case I managed to get the driver fix to work but it wasn't with your instructions on page 37 (maybe I didn't do it right), although I did use your R2.75 file.

Anyway Jugularkeijo, you might have success with the method I used.

-Download the R2.79 drivers from Realtek here (grab the zip file version or the 64bit exe if you have 7zip installed cause its smaller)
-Also grab the R2.75 file from Jgr9's post on page 37 here.
-Extract the R2.79 driver and copy/replace the R2.75 file into the newly extracted Vista64 folder.
-Uninstall your current realtek drivers
-Follow these instructions to disable driver enforcement
-Once you are in windows with driver enforcement disabled run the setup.exe in your extracted R2.79 folder and proceed with the setup
-Click "I want to restart later" at the end of the installer
-click start, type in "regedit" without quotes. Go to "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Audio". Right click > new > DWORD (32bit) "DisableProtectedAudioDG" and set it to 1.
-Restart and it should now work.

My question for Jgr9

With the method I used, will it stop working at any point? Windows updates and such.

Best advice : turn windows updates off, you don't need them. If anything requires updating you can do that manually, it's a far safer method. Leaving it on is for the uninitiated however no, windows updates are unlikely to do anything to your sound drivers, though not sure about Win10 as I am avoiding that like the plague until DX12 becomes common place and games I absolutely have to play are DX12 only.

 

[Jgr9]

Windows 10's update process/system is significantly different than previous Windows in certain ways. I DO NOT recommend disabling updates, but some updates will be to a new build of Windows 10, which requires drivers being re-installed. Of course the process of them being automatically re-installed does not include the modifications.

 

[Irenicus]

Windows 10's update process/system is significantly different than previous Windows in certain ways. I DO NOT recommend disabling updates, but some updates will be to a new build of Windows 10, which requires drivers being re-installed. Of course the process of them being automatically re-installed does not include the modifications.

You may not recommend it, but windows updating itself is windows updating itself I don't see why it would be any different with Win 10. I'm not saying I never install updates, I just don't leave automatic updates on and do it manually. It's a practice every gamer should (and generally does) follow.

 

[Jgr9]

mmmm... no.

Plus, unless you block them in some other way, you're pretty much required to get the updates (within a month). I'm a heavy gamer and have been for a long time and have had no issues and only improvements with gaming since I started using Windows 10 in 2014. You can disable gpu driver updates as well if you really need to, but I haven't had to yet.

 

[imadeus]

Hi all.

I am here to request your help.

I am trying to make this work but I have some problem

Here are my device :

1. Headphone Thritton 720+ connected with optical sound and tritton box
(connection like this : in digital mode : http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com...90303N001/TRITTON-PRO-PLUS_Setup_Guide_PC.jpg)
2. Motherboard Asus Z170 Pro Gaming (able to send 5.1 and 7.1)

So here are my problem :
1. I have a device Tritton recognized : but only stereo mode like on this screen : http://www.kzu-gaming.be/asus/tritton1.png
2. I have also Realtek Digital Outpout (this is my default choice) : here I have dolby digital on setup : http://www.kzu-gaming.be/asus/tritton2.png
3. If I open the realteak program menu : here is the result : http://www.kzu-gaming.be/asus/tritton3.png

So :
A. Why haven't I DIGITAL OUTPOUT OPTICAL in the realtek program menu ?
B. I have uninstall driver (from motherboard cd) than reboot
C. I install latest driver from realtek website R.79 than reboot
D. I put the .dll downloaded from this forum thread (page 1) and put it in c:\windows\system32 (RTKAPO64.dll - R271 - Dolby Digital Live + DTS Interactive + Dolby Home Theater + DTS Neo) than reboot

Problem : nothing seems working.

Any help will be appreciated . I am working on it since a few days now ...

 

[Jgr9]

Those 2 images are the options for the not-optical outputs.

You are saying that you do not have a "Realtek Digital Output(Optical)" playback device appearing at all? (Through Windows.)

 

[imadeus]

Those 2 images are the options for the not-optical outputs.

You are saying that you do not have a "Realtek Digital Output(Optical)" playback device appearing at all? (Through Windows.)

Yes, but I am connecting in optical and I have sound (as on picture : dolby digital). But I haven't
"Realtek Digital Output(Optical)"

And I do not know why ??

 

[Jgr9]

I'm surprised that you are actually getting sound.

In the Windows Playback Devices, right-click anywhere in the middle of the window and click "Show Disabled Devices" and "Show Disconnected Devices" and see what you get.

 

[imadeus]

I'm surprised that you are actually getting sound.

In the Windows Playback Devices, right-click anywhere in the middle of the window and click "Show Disabled Devices" and "Show Disconnected Devices" and see what you get.

Here are the unactivated devices : http://www.kzu-gaming.be/asus/tritton4.png

(I have a GeForce Gtx 970 and Windows 7)


Edit :
I have made a test and connect my headphone to the tower with an adaptater like that :
http://www.trittonaudio.com/imgs/cat_thumbs/parts_ax720_pc_adapter_cable.jpg

So the 5.1 and 7.1 are recognized, but I can only hear left and right sound (not center, not rear right and not rear left).
http://www.kzu-gaming.be/asus/tritton5.png

Have I to buy this adapter : http://www.trittonaudio.com/imgs/cat_thumbs/parts_axpro_pc_adapter_cable.jpg
instead of the actual ?