d44ve
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- Joined
- Apr 16, 2007
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| Processor | Intel E6600 @ 4.2GHZ Wo0t! |
|---|---|
| Motherboard | ASUS Striker Extreme & eVGA 680i A1 |
| Cooling | Phase Change !! |
| Memory | OCZ SLI 1066MHZ (2GB) |
| Video Card(s) | EVGA 8800 GTX |
| Storage | Western Digital 320 GB |
| Case | Antec 900 |
| Power Supply | Lian-Li V2000 |
| Software | Vista Ultimate |
I was asked to repost this here in the cooling section.....
First pictures here is the block straight from Danger Den. As you can see there are scratches from the machining of the block. They look a lot worse in the pictures, when looking at it from a normal distance they would appear to just be slight scratches.
Next I started with a 1000 grit sandpaper. Some will start with an 800 grit and there is nothing wrong with it. The only reason why I don't go to 800 is that it is an extra step in the process and only needs to be used if there are serious defects on the surface.
I wet sanded this block since it is just a block of copper. This honestly is a step you do not have to do. You can just sand it regularly, but I am anal when it comes to this kind of stuff. Some people may want to not wet sand their CPU's. I personally have, but I used non conductive non corrosive lubricant. I have done it many times without any problems... but I would personally not recommend it for you, because I do not want to be responsible for any damage. I start by soaking the paper in water and then place it on my flat surface. I start sanding and it you start feeling it to give more and more resistance, just a little bit more water. Also, another good thing about wet sanding is that once the sand paper gets "worn" you can rinse it out and use it again.
Here are the pictures of the first pass with 1000 grit paper. As you can clearly see on the edges that this block was no where near level. This took me about 10 minutes
Here is the second pass with 1000 grit paper. As you can see it is starting to get a bit more even through the middle, but still a long ways off. This took me about another 15 minutes.
This is the third pass with 1000 grit sand paper. Getting closer, still not done yet.
Time : 15 minutes
And now this is the final pass with the 1000 grit sand paper. As you can see everything has evened out and after this is the easy part!
And now here I started with the 1500 grit sand paper, as you can see it is all starting to come together. This is the easy part. I spent about 20 minutes on this.
Now this is the pass with the 2000 grit sand paper. This is the highest I go, some people like to goto 2500 grit but to each their own. As you can see in the pictures there is only very fine scratches in the surface and already VERY reflective. This took me about 15 minutes.
Now here what I did is I took your normal automotive rubbing compound and took the dremal with a polishing pad to it. This step isn't really needed. I just added this so people can see what they need to do to get it as shiny as possible and to get out all the super fine scratches
NOTE : Do not use a POLISH. You want to use a rubbing compound. You can find this in the automotive body work section
First pictures here is the block straight from Danger Den. As you can see there are scratches from the machining of the block. They look a lot worse in the pictures, when looking at it from a normal distance they would appear to just be slight scratches.
Next I started with a 1000 grit sandpaper. Some will start with an 800 grit and there is nothing wrong with it. The only reason why I don't go to 800 is that it is an extra step in the process and only needs to be used if there are serious defects on the surface.
I wet sanded this block since it is just a block of copper. This honestly is a step you do not have to do. You can just sand it regularly, but I am anal when it comes to this kind of stuff. Some people may want to not wet sand their CPU's. I personally have, but I used non conductive non corrosive lubricant. I have done it many times without any problems... but I would personally not recommend it for you, because I do not want to be responsible for any damage. I start by soaking the paper in water and then place it on my flat surface. I start sanding and it you start feeling it to give more and more resistance, just a little bit more water. Also, another good thing about wet sanding is that once the sand paper gets "worn" you can rinse it out and use it again.
Here are the pictures of the first pass with 1000 grit paper. As you can clearly see on the edges that this block was no where near level. This took me about 10 minutes
Here is the second pass with 1000 grit paper. As you can see it is starting to get a bit more even through the middle, but still a long ways off. This took me about another 15 minutes.
This is the third pass with 1000 grit sand paper. Getting closer, still not done yet.
Time : 15 minutes
And now this is the final pass with the 1000 grit sand paper. As you can see everything has evened out and after this is the easy part!
And now here I started with the 1500 grit sand paper, as you can see it is all starting to come together. This is the easy part. I spent about 20 minutes on this.
Now this is the pass with the 2000 grit sand paper. This is the highest I go, some people like to goto 2500 grit but to each their own. As you can see in the pictures there is only very fine scratches in the surface and already VERY reflective. This took me about 15 minutes.
Now here what I did is I took your normal automotive rubbing compound and took the dremal with a polishing pad to it. This step isn't really needed. I just added this so people can see what they need to do to get it as shiny as possible and to get out all the super fine scratches
NOTE : Do not use a POLISH. You want to use a rubbing compound. You can find this in the automotive body work section
