Discussion in 'Audio, Video & Home Theater' started by erocker, Mar 13, 2012.
oh you boys. I could never leave TPU as old of a member as i am with you helping.
if you have a lot of televisions and monitors in your house it's a good investment.
psst, BumbleBee ain't a boy
oh i know I have one someware. years ago when i worked at geeksquad that is the one thing id reccomend. The other services and prices were shit. but if they were over my way (I wasnt home thetre) and they asked I always said yes get it calibrated. Some days I almost cried watching them walk out of the store with their 60"+ TVs that were easily over 2k and they didnt pay for a calibration.
Do not lie to me.
why don't you tell them where I live too
edit: Anyways, sorry for derailing the thread. Back on topic, what specific model of calibration unit would you recommend on a budget of ~$100?
i'm going to punch you in the face now Jesus..
Anyone else here use the 6500k calibration ICC profile from overlock.net? It ended up working great for me.
Also, if you end up with the glossy screen like me, make sure you have a lowly lit room, any brightness at all will reflect off the tempered glass. Matte only is the only thing the Koreans have left to learn.
You can get a Pantone Huey Pro for half the price.
the site is down can you still get these?
hint.. look on eBay
Seriously thinking of getting a PCBANK or a Catleap...
Can anyone who has one tell us how the overdrive is on those screens? Artifacts after fast moving objects, areas of high contrast and such? That's one piece of information that no1 seems to have shared yet.
I have a catleap and I can say I get no noticeable ghosting if that's what you're referring to by artifacts after fast moving objects. Also am using the 6500k icc profile as previously linked, the contrast and colours are much better than an TN panel I have used and I have a tiny bit of backlight bleed on the bottom edges but tbh again nothing like you get from standard TN panel anyway so it's all good.
I don't think it's better than TN
black level is a concern.. 0.29 cd/m2 is pretty terrible.
Not sure what that measurement means however I can tell you the black on my catleap is a "lot more" black than any TN I have ever used.
a better black level means deeper blacks, shadows, detail, etc. you measure the darkest point of the screen.
The black and colors are really nice on this panel, no matter what the values say.
I had to calibrate by myself as the OCN 6500K ICM still left me with a reddish hue, I calibrated it myself through windows with my old screen next to it and found both Green&Red to be too off on the Catleap.
I tried the test application and noticed some ghosting, but in games I can't see it at all. it's probably not often that I have a black square on a white background.
You obviously don't own one of these screens as the difference between a standard 19-24" TN HD monitor and these IPS displays are night and day. The panels are the same LG panels used in the Apple 27"/Dell U2711 monitors and when the brightness is toned down and the colors are calibrated no TN panel will come close to the quality
I don't need to. all the content we consume is 8-bit which TN panels can achieve. your paying for 2560x1440 nothing more.
And the comment of the week goes to....
I could care less about 8bit vs 10bit, my point is, colour reproduction, vividness, whites, blacks etc are all much better on this monitor than any TN panels out there, you obviously are a little out of your depth if you are comparing specs of 2 different screen technologies and expecting them to be an apples to apples comparison.
I beg to differ, the color vibrance for instance is light-years better.. and I'm not coming from a cheap panel at all.
If you think the only difference between IPS and TN is 10bit vs 8bit then I suggest you go an do some research on both technologies, better yet, buy an IPS and stand it next to a comparable TN and you will be enlightened.
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