CyberDruid
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- Sep 23, 2007
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System Name | Shop Dog |
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Hey guys if you happen to be a craftsman and have the skill and the tools check out this method for making a nice clean opening in an aluminum side panel.
I use melamine to make router templates but you can use chipboard or anything thick enough to guide the router.
One benefit of using a template is being able to easily layout the exact position of the opening. Another one is if you screw up you can just grab a piece of stock and start over...
Throughout I assume your complete familiarity and mastery of basic tools. Using a tablesaw crank the blade up through the work to give yourself perfectly straight and parallel sides.
Use a jigsaw with the appropriate blade to finish off the template.
Another benefit of using a template is it makes putting the hole where you want a lot easier. Plus when you clamp it to the panel it makes the panel stiffer. Clamp the template in position using rubber padded spring clamps. Mark about 1/8" in from the actual perimeter. Cut this out using a jigsaw. Here is when the template comes in handy again by protecting the surface from the base of the jigsaw as you cut. After you've hogged out the waste you can now use the template to guide your router. I like to use a 1/2" shank two flute carbide straight bit with a template collar on the base. This leaves about 1/16" of material hanging past the template. If you make a mistake in the way you handle the router and leave a ripple you can file or block it out or you can use a top bearing flush trim bit to blaze the 1/16" off flush to the template.
Again the template will be handy for sanding the panel by protecting the anodized exterior for any stray grit while hand or block sanding. Only after you have the piece dressed and ready for the window should you take the template off the panel.
Using low tack tape to protect panels is standard practice when doing any kind of heavy work to them...you can never undo a careless moment.
The cut left by the router is inifnitely smoother than you could get with a saw.
In fact it might even be as smooth as a laser or waterjet (which leave little ripples BTW).
The template is an aid again in keeping the sanding block dead perpendicular to the face of the panel to leave a perfectly smooth and flat edge.
With an edge like that there is no need for bulky rubber channel. If the silver looks wrong to you just black it out with a sharpy. Once again if you use the template it will keep the ink on the raw metal and leave no ugly smudges on the anodized panel.
And one last benefit of the template...you can easily reproduce the work.
Hope that is interesting to the case modding community. Do not just go out and buy a tablesaw, router and jigsaw and try this...you will also need to learn how to use those tools safely. If you only have one panel and no second chances I suggest you practice on some scrap to get a feel for it. 2mm aluminum is not easy to route and you need to maintain firm control of the tool to pull it off.
Happy Modding

I use melamine to make router templates but you can use chipboard or anything thick enough to guide the router.

One benefit of using a template is being able to easily layout the exact position of the opening. Another one is if you screw up you can just grab a piece of stock and start over...

Throughout I assume your complete familiarity and mastery of basic tools. Using a tablesaw crank the blade up through the work to give yourself perfectly straight and parallel sides.

Use a jigsaw with the appropriate blade to finish off the template.

Another benefit of using a template is it makes putting the hole where you want a lot easier. Plus when you clamp it to the panel it makes the panel stiffer. Clamp the template in position using rubber padded spring clamps. Mark about 1/8" in from the actual perimeter. Cut this out using a jigsaw. Here is when the template comes in handy again by protecting the surface from the base of the jigsaw as you cut. After you've hogged out the waste you can now use the template to guide your router. I like to use a 1/2" shank two flute carbide straight bit with a template collar on the base. This leaves about 1/16" of material hanging past the template. If you make a mistake in the way you handle the router and leave a ripple you can file or block it out or you can use a top bearing flush trim bit to blaze the 1/16" off flush to the template.
Again the template will be handy for sanding the panel by protecting the anodized exterior for any stray grit while hand or block sanding. Only after you have the piece dressed and ready for the window should you take the template off the panel.

Using low tack tape to protect panels is standard practice when doing any kind of heavy work to them...you can never undo a careless moment.

The cut left by the router is inifnitely smoother than you could get with a saw.

In fact it might even be as smooth as a laser or waterjet (which leave little ripples BTW).

The template is an aid again in keeping the sanding block dead perpendicular to the face of the panel to leave a perfectly smooth and flat edge.

With an edge like that there is no need for bulky rubber channel. If the silver looks wrong to you just black it out with a sharpy. Once again if you use the template it will keep the ink on the raw metal and leave no ugly smudges on the anodized panel.

And one last benefit of the template...you can easily reproduce the work.
Hope that is interesting to the case modding community. Do not just go out and buy a tablesaw, router and jigsaw and try this...you will also need to learn how to use those tools safely. If you only have one panel and no second chances I suggest you practice on some scrap to get a feel for it. 2mm aluminum is not easy to route and you need to maintain firm control of the tool to pull it off.
Happy Modding

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