Where do you live ? The steel or the aluminium is not the best choice for a temporary enclosure...
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I'm looking for a good tool to make the 3D scanning of my mini-pc using the photogrammetry and my Kinect 2.
- Thread starter ziomario
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Where do you live ? The steel or the aluminium is not the best choice for a temporary enclosure...
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Germania.
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You may make a donation to your local pet asylum. Otherwise freebie from my side.
According to the latest considerations made by the good experienced engineers we have here (I'm serious), it is better not to use a lithium battery pack. Then I will use two power banks (the first one to power on the RockPro and the other one to power on the display) ; for this reason I have to recalculate the measurements.
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| System Name | MainPC |
|---|---|
| Processor | AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D |
| Motherboard | AsRock B550M Steel Legend |
| Cooling | SCYTHE Big Shuriken 3 SCBSK-3000R |
| Memory | DDR4-3600 32GB |
| Video Card(s) | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 TI Blower ZT-P10810B-10B |
| Storage | KIOXIA EXCERIA PRO 1TB SSD-CK1.0N4P/N and 2 SSDs + 1 HDD |
| Case | SilverStone SST-SG12B |
| Audio Device(s) | TASCAM US-366-SN |
| Power Supply | Silver Stone DECATHLON 850W SST-DA850-G |
| Mouse | Logitech G502 HERO |
I don't know what request you sent to TAKACHI, but... I have at least proposed two specific case model numbers with URL links.
Of course, I understand that you didn't like the acrylic case "SKGF□-□-□K15□・W201-250mm, D101-150mm".
What did you think of the PF24-4-24W that I suggested?
Would you have preferred a case with different dimensions?
A guide to the information you should look at to find cases on the TAKACHI website.
As a side note, the display would not fit into a case that was one size smaller than the PF24-4-24W.
Please see the model number list for NETWORK PLASTIC BOX - PF series.
The model number 24-4-24 represents the external dimensions of the case: 240mm x 40mm x 240mm.
The usable internal dimensions are 187.6mm x 29.5mm x 229.5mm.
It's better to read these dimensions as 229.5mm x 29.5mm x 187.6mm, since you'll probably want to use it in landscape mode.
The display dimensions were 195.5mm x 11.4 x 120.8mm, so you can see that it will fit in the case.
You'll notice that unlike the cases you've been building so far, there's space around the perimeter to place components without having to stack them on top of the display.
And the thing you really need to check is the Recommended PCB dimension on page 3 of the PDF drawings for each case.
*Do not make the mistake of looking at page 4. The dimensions on page 4 are for the lid (bottom of the case), which is slightly larger than the ones on page 3. If you stack them all together to an inner height of 29.5 mm using the dimensions on page 4, they will not fit into the case.
If you look at the Recommended PCB dimensions you will see that it is a cross shape.
This is the true maximum size of the components that can fit into the case.
The effective internal dimensions just show the largest rectangle within the Recommended PCB dimensions.
The effective internal height of the case is 29.5mm, but this is reduced by the height of the screw mounting studs inside the case that you will probably not use.
If you cut off the 5mm high studs on both sides with pliers or something, the height inside the case will be 39.5mm.
This is a rough example of placement by me and is by no means accurate.
If you look at the outside of the case, it looks like this:
I used a small case I found at TAKACHI to design a tablet PC using CAD.
The display modeling is not accurate, so it may be a gamble, but...
It seems possible to assemble it with the PF24-4-17, which is the next smaller case size.
I noticed that RockPro64 provides a STEP file for 3D CAD
I edited the file "main-pcb_asm(2).stp" to delete the infrared module, which is probably unnecessary.
TAKACHI provides a STEP file for 3D CAD of the case.
*You need to register an account to obtain 3D STEP files from TAKACHI.
So I made a simple 3D model of the display and did a quick check to see if it could be assembled.
tada!
I don't think this size is bad, what do you think?
A Liitokala 3S2P battery is used for the RockPro64.
A Liitokala 3S1P battery is used for the display.
Expected battery life is 6.12 hours.
Other items you will need are:
Part 1: Case-mounted connector for battery charging
Part 2: DC plug that can be used with screws, screw the wiring of part 1 into place.
You've probably already purchased the rest.
・PD trigger conversion adapter.
・12VDC to USB 5V conversion board.
・HDMI cable.
Etc...
I realized that there was no way to connect a USB for communication with the display's touch panel...
It's unfortunate that the RockPro64 does not have a USB pin header for internal connection to the case.
If you want to use a touch panel, you will need to rearrange it a bit, but there is still room in the case so it shouldn't be a problem.
*Since it became very long, I edited it to correct the layout, etc.
There's a ton of other stuff I'd like to share...
It's a handy tool for manually cutting holes of any shape into thin metal cases.
It's called a hand nibbler.
*I translated this and looked for a similar product on Amazon in the OP's country, but couldn't find anything.
The HDMI on the display was facing the wrong way around, so I rearranged the whole thing.
3D PDF Preview here.
Please refer to Adobe Help for instructions on how to view 3D PDF.
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Hello man.
Very very thanks for all the efforts you are making for this project. I've taken the measurements of every part carefully. You can find the pictures with all the measurements here :
One error that you made is to put the RockPro vertically :
It is wrong because in this way or the ethernet port or the USB ports are not usable because they rest on the plane of the support surface. I put it horizontally :
PS :
On the back cover pic,the yellow squares means the only open parts...
Very very thanks for all the efforts you are making for this project. I've taken the measurements of every part carefully. You can find the pictures with all the measurements here :
One error that you made is to put the RockPro vertically :
It is wrong because in this way or the ethernet port or the USB ports are not usable because they rest on the plane of the support surface. I put it horizontally :
PS :
On the back cover pic,the yellow squares means the only open parts...
Last edited:
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| System Name | MainPC |
|---|---|
| Processor | AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D |
| Motherboard | AsRock B550M Steel Legend |
| Cooling | SCYTHE Big Shuriken 3 SCBSK-3000R |
| Memory | DDR4-3600 32GB |
| Video Card(s) | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 TI Blower ZT-P10810B-10B |
| Storage | KIOXIA EXCERIA PRO 1TB SSD-CK1.0N4P/N and 2 SSDs + 1 HDD |
| Case | SilverStone SST-SG12B |
| Audio Device(s) | TASCAM US-366-SN |
| Power Supply | Silver Stone DECATHLON 850W SST-DA850-G |
| Mouse | Logitech G502 HERO |
Umm... sorry, what dimensions are these...?
I have no idea what I can do with this...
You need to learn how to write dimensions and what dimensions to measure.
I've given an example, but the following format will also be easier to understand.
Key Points
- Photograph each part individually. (Cables etc. can remain connected.)
- Photograph each part from the front if possible, and take separate photos from at least two directions.
- Please provide separate dimensions for protruding parts etc.
- If you want to give instructions on how parts can be combined, you need to give specific instructions such as "Used for connecting inside the case," "Needs to be exposed for connecting outside the case," or "Some kind of extension cable is required for connecting outside the case."
- It is easier to read if you use Excel, PowerPoint, Google Spreadsheets, Office compatible software, etc. to indicate dimensions using straight lines with leader lines and arrows.
- For simplicity's sake, you can also draw straight lines directly between measurement points and still be able to read them.
Then please provide the correct component placement requirements.
For example
[RockPro64]
- The side with the HDMI connector will be used for wiring inside the case.
- The side with the USB connector will also be used for wiring inside the case.
-The LAN connector needs to be accessible from outside the case, so please make it accessible using an extension cable.
If the information isn't presented accurately, a lot of retakes like this will occur.
If you had hired a professional, you would have been charged an exorbitant amount for the design...
Of course, this time I performed the 3D CAD work of my own volition and without the OP's permission, so there is nothing the OP needs to worry about.
I think the OP understands the importance of accurately verbalizing and conveying the intended information.
I would like to convey that accurate verbalization (informationization) in an engineering sense is just as important.
*When translating using the Google Chrome browser, I noticed that adding images, quotations, indents, or horizontal lines helps keep the line breaks from getting messed up, so I do this.
I realized something from this exchange.
- The fact that the OP normally uses an OS other than Windows.
→ There's a good chance that it would be pointless to tell them how I work.
- I basically only use Windows.
*I owned a Mac around 2011. I also built a Jetson development environment using Ubuntu Linux running on WSL2 a few years ago. Other than that, I've only used Windows.
Can you tell me about the OP's main PC environment?
Just the OS, CPU, memory, and GPU are enough.
From the profile post, we can see that he probably owns an RTX 2080Ti.
Now, it seems that the OP has used Blender.
When I checked the operating environment for Blender, FreeBSD is not supported.
The OP must have used Linux, Mac, or Windows at least when using Blender, right?
When communicating about dimensional measurements, the information discrepancy between the OP and me is at a level that cannot be ignored.
I hope that if the OP experiences CAD, he will be able to understand what dimensions he needs to measure and what he needs to communicate.
So I've decided to try using the same CAD software as the OP.
I think FreeCAD is a good choice for now.
I've only heard of FreeCAD before, but I've never used it.
I have taught 3D CAD to several people in the past.
The person I taught 3D CAD to is a friend who has an engineering background and studied at the same school as me.
For 2D CAD, I have also handed out tutorial materials and assignments to over 30 people, including complete novices with no engineering knowledge, and taught them as a lecturer.
At the time, we were adding a new work process, so there were many people with low motivation.
As a result, all of them were able to master the basics.
*Of course, this was when we met in person, could see each other's PC screens and show each other how to use the keyboard and mouse, and communicated verbally in our native language...
I am aware that my experience is completely useless in text-based or screen-sharing voice chats like Discord.
However, there are surely things we can share by working with the same software for the first time.
Would you like to learn FreeCAD together?
I have no idea what I can do with this...
You need to learn how to write dimensions and what dimensions to measure.
I've given an example, but the following format will also be easier to understand.
Key Points
- Photograph each part individually. (Cables etc. can remain connected.)
- Photograph each part from the front if possible, and take separate photos from at least two directions.
- Please provide separate dimensions for protruding parts etc.
- If you want to give instructions on how parts can be combined, you need to give specific instructions such as "Used for connecting inside the case," "Needs to be exposed for connecting outside the case," or "Some kind of extension cable is required for connecting outside the case."
- It is easier to read if you use Excel, PowerPoint, Google Spreadsheets, Office compatible software, etc. to indicate dimensions using straight lines with leader lines and arrows.
- For simplicity's sake, you can also draw straight lines directly between measurement points and still be able to read them.
Then please provide the correct component placement requirements.
For example
[RockPro64]
- The side with the HDMI connector will be used for wiring inside the case.
- The side with the USB connector will also be used for wiring inside the case.
-The LAN connector needs to be accessible from outside the case, so please make it accessible using an extension cable.
If the information isn't presented accurately, a lot of retakes like this will occur.
If you had hired a professional, you would have been charged an exorbitant amount for the design...
Of course, this time I performed the 3D CAD work of my own volition and without the OP's permission, so there is nothing the OP needs to worry about.
I think the OP understands the importance of accurately verbalizing and conveying the intended information.
I would like to convey that accurate verbalization (informationization) in an engineering sense is just as important.
*When translating using the Google Chrome browser, I noticed that adding images, quotations, indents, or horizontal lines helps keep the line breaks from getting messed up, so I do this.
I realized something from this exchange.
- The fact that the OP normally uses an OS other than Windows.
→ There's a good chance that it would be pointless to tell them how I work.
- I basically only use Windows.
*I owned a Mac around 2011. I also built a Jetson development environment using Ubuntu Linux running on WSL2 a few years ago. Other than that, I've only used Windows.
Can you tell me about the OP's main PC environment?
Just the OS, CPU, memory, and GPU are enough.
From the profile post, we can see that he probably owns an RTX 2080Ti.
Now, it seems that the OP has used Blender.
When I checked the operating environment for Blender, FreeBSD is not supported.
The OP must have used Linux, Mac, or Windows at least when using Blender, right?
The OP said that he wasn't ruling out learning CAD as an option.
When communicating about dimensional measurements, the information discrepancy between the OP and me is at a level that cannot be ignored.
I hope that if the OP experiences CAD, he will be able to understand what dimensions he needs to measure and what he needs to communicate.
So I've decided to try using the same CAD software as the OP.
I think FreeCAD is a good choice for now.
I've only heard of FreeCAD before, but I've never used it.
I have taught 3D CAD to several people in the past.
The person I taught 3D CAD to is a friend who has an engineering background and studied at the same school as me.
For 2D CAD, I have also handed out tutorial materials and assignments to over 30 people, including complete novices with no engineering knowledge, and taught them as a lecturer.
At the time, we were adding a new work process, so there were many people with low motivation.
As a result, all of them were able to master the basics.
*Of course, this was when we met in person, could see each other's PC screens and show each other how to use the keyboard and mouse, and communicated verbally in our native language...
I am aware that my experience is completely useless in text-based or screen-sharing voice chats like Discord.
However, there are surely things we can share by working with the same software for the first time.
Would you like to learn FreeCAD together?
Attachments
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1741724958579.png
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No need to use an LAN extension cable because the ETH port comes out on one side because I put the Rockpro horizontally :
I can't. I've already spent all my money to buy the hardware components that you see on the pictures. Without your help,I would have made do with makeshift means, with a low probability of success.
Thanks,you are a special guy. You are not helping me only,but you are helping a lot of users who wants to learn how to make projects like mine.
Oh,that's so true. Verbalizing accurately is part of MY work,the psychologist. Please stop calling me "OP". My name is Mario,thanks.
I use FreeBSD as main OS. But I play with Linux and Windows since the '90s.
CPU = Intel I9-9900K ; GPU = nVidia RTX 2080ti
Luckily Blender works good under FreeBSD because it has been ported. We can also use CUDA and the rendering using the physical GPU.
Maybe later,if and when I will understand that I can't reach the result using makeshift means. Anyway,I'm not good to understand the english language when it is spoken and when it has a high level of technicality. But I think that I could start learning by myself by watching video tutorials and asking,textually,only where and when I will not understand what to do.
In the meantime I tried to give you more detailed informations about the location and the measurements of the hardware components...
This one contains the measures as they should be. Just because I have included two things that don't match with my actual enclosure :
a) the TNTOR powerbank : as you can see it does not fit inside the enclosure at all,for (6.5-4.5) cm...to be sure we can add another cm,so (6.5-4.5)+1
b) some more cms on the right because my actual enclosure,due to the rounded corner,can't house the display enterely. The width of enclosure should be increased by 1 cm so that the display can fit inside of it. To be sure we can say 2 cm...You can see this from the picture below :
I hope this is more clear :
The measurements below don't include the (6.5-4.5+1) cm to add because the power bank and the 2 cm to add because the display does not fit inside the cause because it's rounded corners...but I dont think that these cms will change the measurements that I did on the picture below.
As you can see the choice of putting the RockPro horyzontally forced me to make an hole on the back cover, from where you can insert various USB peripherals. And I cut another hole on top of the CPU,to prevent it from overheating...
Sure there are some other components of the board that can't be used because they will be covered by the back cover,but I don't use them and anyway,I haven't found a better solution,yet. The only solution is to cut more holes from the back cover,but it's not very good because it will expose the board to too many atmospheric agents.
Last edited:
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| System Name | MainPC |
|---|---|
| Processor | AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D |
| Motherboard | AsRock B550M Steel Legend |
| Cooling | SCYTHE Big Shuriken 3 SCBSK-3000R |
| Memory | DDR4-3600 32GB |
| Video Card(s) | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 TI Blower ZT-P10810B-10B |
| Storage | KIOXIA EXCERIA PRO 1TB SSD-CK1.0N4P/N and 2 SSDs + 1 HDD |
| Case | SilverStone SST-SG12B |
| Audio Device(s) | TASCAM US-366-SN |
| Power Supply | Silver Stone DECATHLON 850W SST-DA850-G |
| Mouse | Logitech G502 HERO |
Okay, Mario.
I do not have a PINE64PlayBox, and detailed dimensional drawings of the PINE64PlayBOX have not been made public.
You are providing dimensions relative to the PINE64PlayBOX you currently have.
This does not serve the purpose of sharing dimensions with others.
If you want someone to think about the design or the necessary dimensions of the case...
You must provide the dimensions of only the parts that will be put into the case, for each part.
Of course, if the dimensions are clear from the part number alone, there is no need to measure them.
Once I know the dimensions of the parts...
it's easy for me to choose a TAKACHI case and consider how to arrange the parts inside it.
In fact, I've already done the layout considerations twice.
Of course, if it's difficult to measure the parts...
- I would like a gap of at least 15mm on the side of the display with the HDMI connector.
I think we can easily realize requests like these.
And one more thing...
Writing annotations in images increases the work required for translation.
*I will have to translate using my phone camera.
If possible, it would be helpful if you could only show the annotation number in the image and include the text in the post.
I do not have a PINE64PlayBox, and detailed dimensional drawings of the PINE64PlayBOX have not been made public.
You are providing dimensions relative to the PINE64PlayBOX you currently have.
This does not serve the purpose of sharing dimensions with others.
If you want someone to think about the design or the necessary dimensions of the case...
You must provide the dimensions of only the parts that will be put into the case, for each part.
Of course, if the dimensions are clear from the part number alone, there is no need to measure them.
Once I know the dimensions of the parts...
it's easy for me to choose a TAKACHI case and consider how to arrange the parts inside it.
In fact, I've already done the layout considerations twice.
Of course, if it's difficult to measure the parts...
- I would like a gap of at least 15mm on the side of the display with the HDMI connector.
I think we can easily realize requests like these.
And one more thing...
Writing annotations in images increases the work required for translation.
*I will have to translate using my phone camera.
If possible, it would be helpful if you could only show the annotation number in the image and include the text in the post.
Okay, Mario.
I do not have a PINE64PlayBox, and detailed dimensional drawings of the PINE64PlayBOX have not been made public.
You are providing dimensions relative to the PINE64PlayBOX you currently have.
This does not serve the purpose of sharing dimensions with others.
If you want someone to think about the design or the necessary dimensions of the case...
You must provide the dimensions of only the parts that will be put into the case, for each part.
Of course, if the dimensions are clear from the part number alone, there is no need to measure them.
Once I know the dimensions of the parts...
it's easy for me to choose a TAKACHI case and consider how to arrange the parts inside it.
In fact, I've already done the layout considerations twice.
Of course, if it's difficult to measure the parts...
- I would like a gap of at least 15mm on the side of the display with the HDMI connector.
I think we can easily realize requests like these.
And one more thing...
Writing annotations in images increases the work required for translation.
*I will have to translate using my phone camera.
If possible, it would be helpful if you could only show the annotation number in the image and include the text in the post.
The STP file of the PINE64 / PlayBox enclosure is here :
playbox_enclosure_20160426.stp
drive.google.com
The PINE64PlayBOX that I have is the one for which I gave you the STP file.
We know the dimensions of the parts that I want to add inside the enclosure. They are :
a) The Rockpro RK3399 board
b) The Nitecore and the TNTOR powerbanks
c) The measurements of the Playbox enclosure that are stored on the STP file I've added before.
d) The display that I'm using
Last edited:
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| System Name | MainPC |
|---|---|
| Processor | AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D |
| Motherboard | AsRock B550M Steel Legend |
| Cooling | SCYTHE Big Shuriken 3 SCBSK-3000R |
| Memory | DDR4-3600 32GB |
| Video Card(s) | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 TI Blower ZT-P10810B-10B |
| Storage | KIOXIA EXCERIA PRO 1TB SSD-CK1.0N4P/N and 2 SSDs + 1 HDD |
| Case | SilverStone SST-SG12B |
| Audio Device(s) | TASCAM US-366-SN |
| Power Supply | Silver Stone DECATHLON 850W SST-DA850-G |
| Mouse | Logitech G502 HERO |
I guess I didn't express it well...
It's too hard to design with relative dimensions from the PlayBOX.
Moreover, the accuracy of relative dimensions is very low.
Your case will be a "Pray BOX" to see if the part will fit lol
By the way, I was able to confirm the STEP data.
The download link for the STEP file on the PINE64 store page didn't work in my environment.
Please tell me what you want to operate.
For example...
[Display]
-Power button
[RockPro64]
-Power button
-microSD
-LAN RJ45 connector
-USB 2.0
-USB 3.0 (3.1, 3.2Gen1... stupid USB standard)
[Power bank TNTOR]
-Type-C for charging
[Power bank NB10000]
-Type-C for charging
…Oh, if you use the Type-C connector on your power bank, do you need to take the power bank out of the case to charge it?
That's inconvenient...
It's too hard to design with relative dimensions from the PlayBOX.
Moreover, the accuracy of relative dimensions is very low.
Your case will be a "Pray BOX" to see if the part will fit lol
By the way, I was able to confirm the STEP data.
The download link for the STEP file on the PINE64 store page didn't work in my environment.
Please tell me what you want to operate.
For example...
[Display]
-Power button
[RockPro64]
-Power button
-microSD
-LAN RJ45 connector
-USB 2.0
-USB 3.0 (3.1, 3.2Gen1... stupid USB standard)
[Power bank TNTOR]
-Type-C for charging
[Power bank NB10000]
-Type-C for charging
…Oh, if you use the Type-C connector on your power bank, do you need to take the power bank out of the case to charge it?
That's inconvenient...
I don't understand what you mean. Are you asking me which parts of the RockPro board / of the powerbanks I want to use,so that you can expose these parts out of the enclosure ?
Do you know that I've bought every single connector to be able to place the major numbers of elements inside the perimeter of the playbook enclosure as well as to be able to expose the most importart connectors of the board outside of it ?
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| System Name | MainPC |
|---|---|
| Processor | AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D |
| Motherboard | AsRock B550M Steel Legend |
| Cooling | SCYTHE Big Shuriken 3 SCBSK-3000R |
| Memory | DDR4-3600 32GB |
| Video Card(s) | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 TI Blower ZT-P10810B-10B |
| Storage | KIOXIA EXCERIA PRO 1TB SSD-CK1.0N4P/N and 2 SSDs + 1 HDD |
| Case | SilverStone SST-SG12B |
| Audio Device(s) | TASCAM US-366-SN |
| Power Supply | Silver Stone DECATHLON 850W SST-DA850-G |
| Mouse | Logitech G502 HERO |
I'm asking you about the information I need or should pay attention to when designing.
I wish you could answer in the format shown in the example...
EDIT
I thought it would be easier to understand with a diagram than with text, so I created a system configuration diagram.
You can make corrections to the diagram, and if there are any special notes, you can give instructions in text.
Is this system configuration diagram correct?
*Conversion adapters etc. are omitted.
There are three types of wiring connections: physical operations, wiring connections for communication, and wiring connections for power.
If there are no problems with the system configuration diagram, we will design the case so that it allows for the necessary operations/wiring connections.
*To write the system configuration diagram, I needed to write text inside the diagram, so I wrote it in both English and Italian.
(I only wrote the power button in Italian.)
EDIT
I thought it would be easier to understand with a diagram than with text, so I created a system configuration diagram.
You can make corrections to the diagram, and if there are any special notes, you can give instructions in text.
Is this system configuration diagram correct?
*Conversion adapters etc. are omitted.
There are three types of wiring connections: physical operations, wiring connections for communication, and wiring connections for power.
If there are no problems with the system configuration diagram, we will design the case so that it allows for the necessary operations/wiring connections.
*To write the system configuration diagram, I needed to write text inside the diagram, so I wrote it in both English and Italian.
(I only wrote the power button in Italian.)
Last edited:
- Joined
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- Messages
- 107 (0.41/day)
- Location
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| System Name | MainPC |
|---|---|
| Processor | AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D |
| Motherboard | AsRock B550M Steel Legend |
| Cooling | SCYTHE Big Shuriken 3 SCBSK-3000R |
| Memory | DDR4-3600 32GB |
| Video Card(s) | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 TI Blower ZT-P10810B-10B |
| Storage | KIOXIA EXCERIA PRO 1TB SSD-CK1.0N4P/N and 2 SSDs + 1 HDD |
| Case | SilverStone SST-SG12B |
| Audio Device(s) | TASCAM US-366-SN |
| Power Supply | Silver Stone DECATHLON 850W SST-DA850-G |
| Mouse | Logitech G502 HERO |
Just to confirm.
[TNTOR power bank]
- The power button and MicroUSB for charging should be accessible from outside the case.
[NB10000 power bank]
- The power button, USB A and Type-C should be accessible from outside the case.
*It is assumed that the Type-C cable will be removed when charging.
[RockPro64]
- The power button does not need to be accessed from outside the case.
*It is assumed that the system will start up automatically when power is supplied.
-The DC12V power input should be external to the case as the Type-C trigger adapter gets in the way.
Can I use a cable like this to connect a touch panel to USB?
It would make my design much easier.
I'll provide an example later.
[TNTOR power bank]
- The power button and MicroUSB for charging should be accessible from outside the case.
[NB10000 power bank]
- The power button, USB A and Type-C should be accessible from outside the case.
*It is assumed that the Type-C cable will be removed when charging.
[RockPro64]
- The power button does not need to be accessed from outside the case.
*It is assumed that the system will start up automatically when power is supplied.
-The DC12V power input should be external to the case as the Type-C trigger adapter gets in the way.
Can I use a cable like this to connect a touch panel to USB?
It would make my design much easier.
I'll provide an example later.
The power button of the TNTOR powerbank does not work ; it is not able to turn on or off the powerbank or the display. As soon as I connect the USB-C cable from it to the display,the display turns on. I can turn it off only by pressing the on/off button located on the right side of the display (and it is accessible outside of the case).
The power button of the TNTOR powerbank does not work ; I made a mistake before. The USB-A of the NB10000 powerbank is accessible from outside the case :
The power and the reset buttons of the RockPro64 are accessible from outside the case because I created an hole on the back cover.
The DC12V power input of the RockPro should be esternal because it is connected to the powerbank using a trigger cable that's very bulky. It can't be placed inside the case because it would be too close to the battery. I didn't find an alternative to that cable.
Nope. Because the display offers one USB-C port and the RockPro one USB-A port. An alternative,to free up the USB-A port of the RockPro, I could use a soft cable from the USB-C port (of the Display) to the USB-C port (of the TNTOR powerbank),like this one :
that start from the USB-C port of the display and ends to the USB-C port of the TNTOR power bank. I looked for it for a long time,but I didn't find it.
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| System Name | MainPC |
|---|---|
| Processor | AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D |
| Motherboard | AsRock B550M Steel Legend |
| Cooling | SCYTHE Big Shuriken 3 SCBSK-3000R |
| Memory | DDR4-3600 32GB |
| Video Card(s) | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 TI Blower ZT-P10810B-10B |
| Storage | KIOXIA EXCERIA PRO 1TB SSD-CK1.0N4P/N and 2 SSDs + 1 HDD |
| Case | SilverStone SST-SG12B |
| Audio Device(s) | TASCAM US-366-SN |
| Power Supply | Silver Stone DECATHLON 850W SST-DA850-G |
| Mouse | Logitech G502 HERO |
There are probably not many layouts that meet all of the requirements.
For now, let's look at a layout that meets most of the requirements.
I'm using two of the cables I mentioned earlier.
*This cable is a USB 2.0 standard USB A to Type-C cable. It can probably withstand the 800mA needed to power the display.
One is red and provides power.
The other is blue and communicates with the touch panel.
This is a work in progress as the position of the display's power button has not yet been included in the 3D model.
There's a reason why I prefer to position the RockPro64 in this orientation:
The TAKACHI case has removable panels for drilling in two directions.
I like to concentrate the things I need to drill on two sides as much as possible.
3D PDF Preview here.
Please refer to Adobe Help for instructions on how to view 3D PDF.
When using a Type-C connector, the power bank will automatically turn on when it detects that the cable is plugged in.
Many power bank models allow you to force turn them off by holding down the power button for a few seconds.
If you want to turn them on, press the power button on the power bank for a short time.
Give it a try.
Hope it works!
For now, let's look at a layout that meets most of the requirements.
I'm using two of the cables I mentioned earlier.
*This cable is a USB 2.0 standard USB A to Type-C cable. It can probably withstand the 800mA needed to power the display.
One is red and provides power.
The other is blue and communicates with the touch panel.
This is a work in progress as the position of the display's power button has not yet been included in the 3D model.
There's a reason why I prefer to position the RockPro64 in this orientation:
The TAKACHI case has removable panels for drilling in two directions.
I like to concentrate the things I need to drill on two sides as much as possible.
3D PDF Preview here.
Please refer to Adobe Help for instructions on how to view 3D PDF.
This is a common problem with power banks…
When using a Type-C connector, the power bank will automatically turn on when it detects that the cable is plugged in.
Many power bank models allow you to force turn them off by holding down the power button for a few seconds.
If you want to turn them on, press the power button on the power bank for a short time.
Give it a try.
Hope it works!
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| System Name | MainPC |
|---|---|
| Processor | AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D |
| Motherboard | AsRock B550M Steel Legend |
| Cooling | SCYTHE Big Shuriken 3 SCBSK-3000R |
| Memory | DDR4-3600 32GB |
| Video Card(s) | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 TI Blower ZT-P10810B-10B |
| Storage | KIOXIA EXCERIA PRO 1TB SSD-CK1.0N4P/N and 2 SSDs + 1 HDD |
| Case | SilverStone SST-SG12B |
| Audio Device(s) | TASCAM US-366-SN |
| Power Supply | Silver Stone DECATHLON 850W SST-DA850-G |
| Mouse | Logitech G502 HERO |
Conversion is possible, but we cannot guarantee how it will appear in Blender.
Try using an STL file. or an PLY file.
*Color information will probably be lost.
Also, SOLIDWORKS, which is a 3D CAD program, has terrible STL conversion functions.
Files with polygon errors are frequently output.
Notice: The unit system has been converted to mm.
If you open it in another unit system, it will be enlarged or reduced from the actual size.
Try using an STL file. or an PLY file.
*Color information will probably be lost.
Also, SOLIDWORKS, which is a 3D CAD program, has terrible STL conversion functions.
Files with polygon errors are frequently output.
Notice: The unit system has been converted to mm.
If you open it in another unit system, it will be enlarged or reduced from the actual size.
Excuse me,but at this point I think that you have understood what's the "geometry" of my case and you know where the electronic components are located. You should know or you can also calculate the dimensions of the powerbanks,of the rockpro and so on. Where you don't have the missing informations you can ask me and I will guide you. So,I think that's easier for you to create a case taking the STL file that I gave you and apporting some further modifications. I also think that on the end,these modifications aren't huges. This could be a better choice than trying to adapt the TAKACHI case that knows nothing about the dislocation of my components.
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| System Name | MainPC |
|---|---|
| Processor | AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D |
| Motherboard | AsRock B550M Steel Legend |
| Cooling | SCYTHE Big Shuriken 3 SCBSK-3000R |
| Memory | DDR4-3600 32GB |
| Video Card(s) | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 TI Blower ZT-P10810B-10B |
| Storage | KIOXIA EXCERIA PRO 1TB SSD-CK1.0N4P/N and 2 SSDs + 1 HDD |
| Case | SilverStone SST-SG12B |
| Audio Device(s) | TASCAM US-366-SN |
| Power Supply | Silver Stone DECATHLON 850W SST-DA850-G |
| Mouse | Logitech G502 HERO |
In your case, it may be better to use plastic putty to create a clay-like case...
I think that quite seriously sometimes...
If you're that particular and want to make the back full of holes... I think it would be easier to make a case using a clay modeling method.
Or you could repair the PINE64PlayBOX with plastic putty and make a case like an extension.
Why not just forget about packing it into a case and just stick the parts to the back of the display?
I think that quite seriously sometimes...
If you're that particular and want to make the back full of holes... I think it would be easier to make a case using a clay modeling method.
Or you could repair the PINE64PlayBOX with plastic putty and make a case like an extension.
Why not just forget about packing it into a case and just stick the parts to the back of the display?
Mine enclosure is not good because the display does not fit inside of it. It is also totally broken where it shouldn't be. It doesn't look professional.
If I patch it up it will still suck. I would like to finish this project the best way possible because I don't like things left hanging or ended badly.
I also want to finish so I can learn the process until the end. On the back, two holes are enough, one on top of the USB ports and the other one on top of the CPU. Maybe 3,the third one on top of the PCI bus...The rest can be covered. At least for now.
If I patch it up it will still suck. I would like to finish this project the best way possible because I don't like things left hanging or ended badly.
I also want to finish so I can learn the process until the end. On the back, two holes are enough, one on top of the USB ports and the other one on top of the CPU. Maybe 3,the third one on top of the PCI bus...The rest can be covered. At least for now.
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- 107 (0.41/day)
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| System Name | MainPC |
|---|---|
| Processor | AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D |
| Motherboard | AsRock B550M Steel Legend |
| Cooling | SCYTHE Big Shuriken 3 SCBSK-3000R |
| Memory | DDR4-3600 32GB |
| Video Card(s) | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 TI Blower ZT-P10810B-10B |
| Storage | KIOXIA EXCERIA PRO 1TB SSD-CK1.0N4P/N and 2 SSDs + 1 HDD |
| Case | SilverStone SST-SG12B |
| Audio Device(s) | TASCAM US-366-SN |
| Power Supply | Silver Stone DECATHLON 850W SST-DA850-G |
| Mouse | Logitech G502 HERO |
Why would you ask for advice if you don’t listen to it…
Or maybe I just didn't know about it, but all tablet devices out there have holes on the back...
Do you have to stick your hand in to insert or remove the USB?
I didn't expect that people would dislike having to access the USB and other interfaces on the side, when the only holes on the back are the air intake and screw holes for maintenance...
Or maybe I just didn't know about it, but all tablet devices out there have holes on the back...
Do you have to stick your hand in to insert or remove the USB?
I didn't expect that people would dislike having to access the USB and other interfaces on the side, when the only holes on the back are the air intake and screw holes for maintenance...
Using two 90 degree USB adapters (the first one will be attached to the USB 2.0 port and the other one to the USB 3.0 port) like the one below will allow to make a very little hole on the back :
because they will come out of the back,just ready to attach to them what you want without sticking the hands inside the case....
Same logic can be applied for the PCI-E bus...this is what can be used :
Using this strategy will make the "tablet" original and creative
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