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Random shut down problem

Ok open your eyes.

That code you had relates to your network. Late at night hmm.


Read it.

Then disconnect all hdds and then re attach 1 at a time.
It has only crashed once late at night the other two times were around noon
It did it last year and not done it at night since and i was using the PC at that time and i was not using the PC at all when it crashed at around noon

I fail to see how WMP can shut a whole system down but okey i can switch to VLC if that will remove the problem
I will have to get unsused to 20 years of WMP in that case but better than having the system crash if WMP is the problem

On the other hand if i do a brand new OS install on a brand new SSD would that still leave WMP corrupted?
Again i am getting info that contradicts each other
 
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Idc about wmp isolate the system off the network and test.

Then disconnect all hdds, test, then reattach 1 at a time and test.
 
I use WMP for music, always have, never had any problems and my pc is on 24/7
That does not mean someone else wont have problem. :shadedshu:
 
Idc about wmp isolate the system off the network and test.

Then disconnect all hdds, test, then reattach 1 at a time and test.
I will keep that in mind the PSU, SSD and then HDD´s in that order seems more likely
If none of the things above with a brand new OS install works then i can look at the network

I am getting a bit overwhelmed but i will keep it in mind
Also like i said i use a VPN so network errors does not mean there is something wrong it
 
fail to see how WMP can shut a whole system down but okey i can switch to VLC if that will remove the problem
I am only suggesting other players for testing, not permanent change.
 
Really!? Do the ethernet cord disconnect first. Then the drives.

If you go to reinstall OS

Do us a favor when you do a fresh OS to only have the OS drive attached and the rest disconnected and powered down.

That will keep windows from dumping boot files to other drives.
 
Do us a favor when you do a fresh OS to only have the OS drive attached and the rest disconnected and powered down.

That will keep windows from dumping boot files to other drives.
I always do that just in case and i plan to do in any case because like you said Windows can throw all kinds of crap on the other drives
When i last installed Windows 10 it was a day or two before i hooked the hard drives up
 
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I always do that just in case and i plans to do in any case because like you said Windows can throw all kinds of crap on the other drives
When i last installed Windows 10 it was a day or two before i hooked the hard drives up
I just updated prev post.
 
I just updated prev post.
I also did that because if i have a network cable plugged in Windows 10 Home will demand i make an online account and MS can sod off so i unplug the system so i can make an offline local account
I never plug the network cable back in until the OS has finished installing that also prevents some problems

As for the hard drives i will not be hooking all 6 up at once thats asking for too much work
What i will be doing is hooking two up at at time and waiting a week between them

Two drives first and if there are no problems after a week the next two and then another week and the last two
If the problem comes back i only need to figure out which of the two drives it is instead of having to figure out 6 drives
 
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I also did that because if i have a network cable plugged in Windows 10 Home will demand i make an online account and MS can sod off so i unplug the system so i can make an offline local account
I never plug the network cable back in until the OS has finished installing that also prevents some problems

As for the hard drives i will not be hooking all 6 up at once thats asking for too much work
What i will be doing is hooked two up at at time and waiting a week between them

Two drives first and if there are no problems after a week the next two and then another week and the last two
If the problem comes back i only need to figure out which of the two drives it is instead of having to figure out 6 drives

Ok leave the cord out and test then the hdds out and test
 
Just to throw out an idea, cheap RAID controllers like something from LSI would have staggered spin-up. So you wouldn't have the boot power tidbits there if you throw one of those in. Do expect much higher boot times, though...
 
Just to throw out an idea, cheap RAID controllers like something from LSI would have staggered spin-up. So you wouldn't have the boot power tidbits there if you throw one of those in. Do expect much higher boot times, though...
In the 320 TB Server Linus video he said NOT to get a RAID card if you were not using RAID you need a host bus adaptor card and the two are not the same
I found a bunch of them on Amazon i have been looking at because almost every new motherboard these days only comes with 6x SATA ports

You can get everything from cards with 2 to 24 ports but the 20-24 ports have a tiny fan on them which is not going to be quiet
I am not sure if 6 ports would be enough if i were to get such a card and anything more than 16 is overkill

 
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It's all a bunch of old SAS / SATA controllers really. They would mostly do what you want, just make sure it's capable of powering the drives one by one. I ran RAID controllers with singular SSDs in past, didn't have an issue other than cable messes and high boot times, etc... it's server hardware.

Chances are those cheap things might not do it.
 
I am not surprise WMP has been corrupted, its not the first time its caused multiple issues. That could explain the DCOM error too. There are better alternative music players, I use MusicBee, I have used foobar2000.


Only those with the nasty red X really matter, the rest are mostly lumped into the FYI category.
I got curious and tried downloading MusicBee and after messing around with it i think i might switch over to that instead of WMP

Its a bit wonky with background pictures but i really like that you get a picture of the art work in the bottom left and info about the band above with WMP you just got the album artwork in the middle of the player

Since i got a lot of music from games it often finds the wrong game like the Strike Suit Zero OST has info about Homeworld which i have never played
It seems to work much better with music like Powerwolf, Sabaton and Sirenia just to name a few

WMP can be a resource hog sometimes and the one thing i dont like about VLC player is my mouse macro shortcut keys that works with WMP dont work with VLC
I have just tried it out and they do work with MusicBee so i will probably give WMP the finger after 20 years of using it as i think MusicBee might be better

Like this
 

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Yeah I think the PSU might be the right step to take, always go with lots of power when you connect even more hardware.
 
The system is almost never fully stressed i dont have a lot of time to play games these days and since i think most newer games are terrible i tend to play older games when i do have the time
Most of the time i will be working and listening to music browsing the web or watching movies or youtube and none of that stresses the machine or draws a ton of power

A 750 watt is more than enough in my case i dont have OC on anything so even when i stress the system it wont draw more than 500 watts at most and even that might be higher than what it actually draws
There is also 20 amps on the 5v rail the power draw for an Ironwolf Pro is 8-10 watts at max and most of that is on the 12v rail and at full load and i dont load all 6 of the drives at the same time

The total power draw on the 5v rail for the hard drives was 3-4 amps for all 6 of them at max power draw which leave 15-16 amps for USB devices and i have never had a shutdown even with mouse keyboard USB DAC/AMP and microphone and a USB drive in use all at once

If there is a power problem its the PSU that is broken its not being overloaded i have had it for 2 years before i started having problems
These shutdown problems happend when i was NOT using the PC i was away so there is zero chance it was using too much power

The price jump for the 850 watts TX was huge where i live and i am not paying that much for a new PSU
I could have ordered a PX 850 watt for around the same price as the TX 750 watt but it had an even longer waiting time than the TX 750 watt did

Edit: did some digging around and did some calculations and it seems the max power draw of all my USB devices and hard drives at their max power draw is somewhere around 40-50 watts total out of the 100 watts available on the 5v rail on the Prime TX

Linus ran 20 Ironwolf Pro drives on a Corsair HX750 which is around 100 watts out of the 150 watts of 5v power available
 
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If there is a power problem its the PSU that is broken its not being overloaded i have had it for 2 years before i started having problems
These shutdown problems happend when i was NOT using the PC i was away so there is zero chance it was using too much power
The PSU efficiency degrades overtime... I have had a PSU that lasted me 1 month and others that lasted 6 or 7 years, but I have always invested in a PSU with much more Wattage that what my build's have required.

For some time I have used some "PSU calculator" that you can find online to estimate the power that my new system would use, if it said a 500W or 550W PSU would suffice I would always buy a 700W or 750W PSU for it, leaving 200W as a "buffer", always expecting it to last years, counting on the efficiency degradation over time.

Although sometimes I can get overkill on some stuff, a PSU is always the core of any build for a stable system.

Keep us posted, and I agree on your approach to connect only 2 drives at a time and leave some days between them to confirm if system is stable or not. However my approach when I have any hardware problem is to connect only the basic and do some tests => keyboard+mouse+1 disk+GPU and run normal tests for some time, only after that I will connect next component and wait and so on.
 
PSU calculators overstate numbers by about 28% so if they say 650 watts its 468 watts when you take those 28% off
There is multiple reasons for why they do it but one reason is to cover their own backs in case you have or buy a crappy unit that cant do its rated wattage

If you got 500-550 watts from a PSU calculator and bought a 700-750 watt you overdid it and overspent by quite a lot but if that makes you feel better i wont argue
Also efficiency has nothing to do with its rated output efficiency is how much power is being lost when converted from wall power to 12v, 5v and 3,3v power

A PSU losing efficiency just mean it wastes more power
If you meant it loses its ability to do its rated wattage thats an old myth testing has shown that even a 10 year old Seasonic X beat to hell can still do its full rated wattage without shutting down

A cheap PSU would probably lose some of its max power output over the years but not the more expensive ones

Edit: the new PSU showed up at the seller today (monday) and has already been shipped out
Should be here tomorrow
 
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Well the PSU showed up at the shop today and was shipped only a few hours later so it should be here tomorrow

Another thing i forgot to mention is IF i find its a hard drive that shutting the system down i have a second PC it will be going into just to make sure i dont ship a working HDD to Seagate just for them to say there is nothing wrong with it and have me pay for testing and shipping

Also i do have personal insurance that cover electrical damage so if Seagate refuses to replace or repair a drive that is damaged by the PSU i will call up my insurance company instead
It might actually be better to talk to the insurance company instead of Seagate IF one of the hard drives is the problem i am still not sure since the damm PSU gets getting delayed

Those 6 drives have cost me around $3750 US (i live in place with 25% VAT and much much higher prices) over the last 4 years so they were NOT cheap drives
They are worth more than the machine they sit in by this point

Got 87 TB of total space with around 65 TB being used
 
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Hi,
Yeah total bs
Only weird program is media center which is not on win-10 or 11

It's likely the board/ psu this dude has had a boatload of issues with this build, just search on oc.net it's a total dumpster fire.
 
New PSU has shown up
The box is not damaged its the plastic wrap around the box that make it look damaged

Strange that the box has changed my old box is slightly taller but not as wide as the new box
 

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Sudden shutdown that you're describing is either a short circuit on a power line (could be wiring, faulty device, or even as dumb as debris in a USB port) or PSU protection (thermal or over-current).

The page of software/network cable discussion are not the issue. Software cannot do a hard poweroff like you describe. Ethernet cables do not transmit power unless you are using a PoE switch and even if there's a faulty device on the other end sending power down data lines, ethernet ports are diode protected so at worst it will kill the diode rendering the onboard network port permanently dead, it's not something that can reoccur.
 
Sudden shutdown that you're describing is either a short circuit on a power line (could be wiring, faulty device, or even as dumb as debris in a USB port) or PSU protection (thermal or over-current).

The page of software/network cable discussion are not the issue. Software cannot do a hard poweroff like you describe. Ethernet cables do not transmit power unless you are using a PoE switch and even if there's a faulty device on the other end sending power down data lines, ethernet ports are diode protected so at worst it will kill the diode rendering the onboard network port permanently dead, it's not something that can reoccur.
Well my RAM was messed up a few weeks ago so i had to buy new RAM and send the broken RAM to RMA

I sent another email to Seasonic yesterday about those 20 amps on the 5v rail on the Prime TX 750 and if that would be enough for 6 hard drives and they said i could have at least 12 or maybe as many as 16 if i dont have too many USB devices without any problems or shut downs

They also said the 20 amps is shared between 5v and 3,3v power so its 100 watts total so if i have like say 10 watts used by 3,3v i got 90 watts left for 5v power
I dont know what an NVME SSD and two sticks of RAM draw?

The fact that the 5v and 3,3v rails share the same 20 amps and that the RAM which uses 3,3v and that the RAM got messed up and that system only shuts off points to a problem with the 5v and 3,3v rails
Another thing i forgot about is i have a USB 3 hub sticking out the back and i wont be plugging that back in nor the front USB 2 ports on the case before i am sure the system is stable with a new PSU

However i have not had a shutdown even with the USB 3 hub and case USB 2 ports plugged in so i dont think that was the problem but better to leave it out just in case
NVME SSD´s also use 3,3v power from the info i found which means the SSD could be damaged as well so good thing i bought a new one
 
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this has probably already been said but in the past, I use to have sudden shutdowns too and I have 5 HDDs two are Seagate ironwolfs and I found that on the Seagate's overtime the power contacts get tarnished when I cleaned them the problem was solved I hope that helps
 
this has probably already been said but in the past, I use to have sudden shutdowns too and I have 5 HDDs two are Seagate ironwolfs and I found that on the Seagate's overtime the power contacts get tarnished when I cleaned them the problem was solved I hope that helps
I dont think thats the problem but sure i note that and keep it in mind and that does help thank you
I had a close look at all 6 of them yesterday with a flashlight and they all look fine and the same

They look exactly the same as the brand new Exos i bought
There are no sign of damage on them but maybe it could be dust so how would you suggest i clean them with a q-tip?
 
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