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3800X build bad performance - what am I doing wrong?

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MSI x570 Godlike - don’t flame me for overkill reasons :clap:

.....

My god man stop torturing us! Keep the new RAM, drop a 3950x in that beast and be done with it. :kookoo: :banghead: :slap: :respect:
 
will change the board anyway, I assume the new board is covered with the sensor data than
And if it isn’t you can have it added. I’ve been using it since it was Everest because of the LCD support for my G15 and now my current G19s where I have all my sensor data Is displayed however I want. My main screen and GPU pages for example. Bottom line they will add your board if it’s not there. I happily renew my license every year because of the great features and product support
 

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@heky
i rather be wasted while i know what im talking about, you clearly dont.
i have a rig that is completely in audible at idle/low load (below 8 dba), while temps with a 280 aio
are within 2*C of custom loops running same chip, all with fans running around 400-500 rpm.
so yeah, i have no clue.
 
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you lost me there, I have no idea what Turbo LLC is :rolleyes:
I have noted down your post, I did already try undervolting once, but that was with the stock cooler still. Scores did get worse but temps stayed sucky.

Basically, LLC compensates for droop. Say you have the CPU running at 4GHz, 1.2V. While you're idle, everything looks normal. But when you fire up a full load benchmark like Prime95 Small for example, Vcore might drop to say 1.125V when the CPU is at 100% load. And so whether you're stable at 4GHz isn't dependent on the voltage that you've set (1.2V), it's dependent on the actual voltage after droop (1.125V). That's droop, and is engineered into VRM design.

LLC usually has a bunch of settings which vary from board to board, from default to really aggressive. The more aggressive you set LLC, the less you droop, but you increase the chance that you get an errant, larger and larger spike in Vcore in the instant when that benchmark begins and load is applied. Say that you still have that 1.2V Vcore, but now you set LLC on a relatively high setting; now when you fire up P95, your Vcore might only drop to 1.175V instead, even though your actual Vcore is still the same (1.2V) as before. But at maximum LLC settings, the spike introduced by LLC can become so large as to become a concern for chip longevity, especially if you're already running a fixed overclock with high voltage on any chip. In a split second when the benchmark starts, 1.2V may jump all the way up to 1.3V then immediately back down to 1.175V.

Because Matisse is self-regulating and always adjusting its Vcore (sub-0.3V) at idle, there's a lot that we don't know about how LLC or undervolting affects idle (from what I can see, it makes very little difference). But as with any other CPU, once that chip is at full sustained load, the same principles regarding Vcore, LLC and droop apply.

As a theoretical example, if you try -0.05V offset/High LLC and Stock Vcore/Default LLC, they may come out to the exact same load voltage and performance, but one runs tamer at idle.

Because we don't know exactly how Matisse is working at stock, it's hard to tell how these settings are working, but in my rig, the difference between -0.075V/Turbo and 0/Default is night and day. One is 10-15C cooler at idle, and always sounds like it's actually idle, while the other constantly sounds like it's ramping to 100% load on nothing. And I lose no performance at load compared to stock without PBO. I prefer to run -0.05V/High now for less aggressive LLC, it functions much the same and doesn't spike.

Basically, the issue with what a lot of people are doing with "undervolting" in the SFF space is that they're reducing the PPT value, or setting an aggressive undervolt (eg. -0.075V) without any LLC. If you reduce PPT, you simply prompt the chip to reduce clocks and performance, which may be beneficial in sub-10 litre cases where you can only make do with a crappy NH-L9a, but is otherwise undesirable. And undervolting without LLC, as we know, will reduce clocks and performance if Vcore is allowed to droop below the essential voltage that it needs for a specific clockspeed.

But every chip is different, so it's up to you to explore the voltage limits of yours and thus, how much undervolting room you have. LLC performance depends on the board too; some boards may take an extremely aggressive stance, while others may require max LLC just to make any difference to Vdroop. If you aren't too bothered about the idle behaviour, just leave it as it is. As long as 100% load temperatures don't reach 80C, you're fine.
 
....you lost me there, I have no idea what Turbo LLC is :rolleyes:....

Some links you may find interesting.

Here is a video regarding undervolting. (Btw using the MSI Godlike.)

How to Kill Your CPU with "Safe" Voltages

The final word on idle voltages for 3rd Gen ryzen

When you decide to manually overclock Ryzen you are throwing away the means which the CPU power is automatically regulated and enabling yourself to damage your CPU if you don't know what you are doing. Just make sure you do as much research as you can before hand and try to corroborate your findings between your search results. Otherwise have fun with it.

@tabascosauz @A Computer Guy
Thanks, I will see how it behaves when the mobo arrives.
regarding the case fans, I did even put a tiny feather in front of every fan to confirm that the direction of airflow is correct. Even when I put them at max speed 1600rpm, temps only get down a little bit.

Here are some more data. I cold booted after the computer was off the whole night.
Before I did it, I made sure to have no background processes running, no steam, no icue, no razer, no nothing

values in °C
Cold Boot (5min. after start of PC)+20min.+60min.5min top fan speeds 1650rpm
Chip546364.362.5
Dims average28.83839-4139
Drive39525451
Case2827.5-39 (second number below GPU)28-4128-40
GPU34494449
CPU47434040
CPU Package50495447
Fans715in x3 / 685out x3715in x3 / 685out x3715in x3 / 685out x3715in x3 / 685out x3



I did have a thought about your fan speeds. Try making your outs faster than your in-s. I realize this might create negative air pressure however if the air from the GPU is recirculating the decrease in pressure between your intakes and outtakes may help move the warmer air away from your GPU faster reducing the re-circulation of warmer air. If this works you may get more even temps above and below the GPU. Also some negative internal pressure might help offset the static pressure from the filter making it easier for your intakes. Anyway just something to try.

Also after looking at your case design perhaps make the bottom front fan a bit faster than the top two to help create a pressure differential between the bottom and top parts of the case.
 
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@heky
i rather be wasted while i know what im talking about, you clearly dont.
i have a rig that is completely in audible at idle/low load (below 8 dba), while temps with a 280 aio
are within 2*C of custom loops running same chip, all with fans running around 400-500 rpm.
so yeah, i have no clue.
Dude, stop posting irrelevant information. You are water-cooling, both CPU and GPU, the OP is NOT! Your heat directly exhausts the case from the radiators to the outside, so it doesn't heat the internals and the gpu doesn't dump that much heat to surrounding components. Stop mixing apples and oranges. Also, i've built hundreds of rigs, water and air cooled, since the Intel 286 33Mhz era, so stop acting like you are the only one who knows what he is talking about. Oh and just for the record, your Ryzen temps are not comparable to custom loops because of your super duper Fans, but because of the die density of Ryzen chips and the inability to transfer the heat away fast enough.
 
  • Oh man, lol yes populated it now and there we go, I did install on GPT, one possible explanation for boot times gone, noooo
  • View attachment 154524
  • I found the CSM option now, it was right there in front of my eyes lol - but guess what, it was already DISABLED :kookoo: - so SSD also screwed?

I don't know If anyone mentioned this, but you didn't populate the right drive. Instead you did populate a USB device. You should populate the SSD / main drive.
 
Some links you may find interesting.

Here is a video regarding undervolting. (Btw using the MSI Godlike.)

How to Kill Your CPU with "Safe" Voltages

The final word on idle voltages for 3rd Gen ryzen

When you decide to manually overclock Ryzen you are throwing away the means which the CPU power is automatically regulated and enabling yourself to damage your CPU if you don't know what you are doing. Just make sure you do as much research as you can before hand and try to corroborate your findings between your search results. Otherwise have fun with it.





I did have a thought about your fan speeds. Try making your outs faster than your in-s. I realize this might create negative air pressure however if the air from the GPU is recirculating the decrease in pressure between your intakes and outtakes may help move the warmer air away from your GPU faster reducing the re-circulation of warmer air. If this works you may get more even temps above and below the GPU. Also some negative internal pressure might help offset the static pressure from the filter making it easier for your intakes. Anyway just something to try.

Also after looking at your case design perhaps make the bottom front fan a bit faster than the top two to help create a pressure differential between the bottom and top parts of the case.
good hints about the fans, will try that out, actually before your post I did set the top fan rpm much higher just to try. I have a strange hissing noise from the fans when the run and I think it could have something to do with the pressure. Anyway will try. Noise reduction is a high priority for me

about cpu OC, i know that at least for me it won’t make sense and I won’t do it. Also PBO has like no effect on my 3800 so I let it be disabled.

just got another issue now, damn godlike board is sold out everywhere and I have to call the vendor what’s up... if i order now i get it in 2-4 weeks which is unacceptable. I hope they got one on the way already. Otherwise I might have to switch to gigabyte xtreme after all.... the cold boot issues reported everywhere make me think twice though

I don't know If anyone mentioned this, but you didn't populate the right drive. Instead you did populate a USB device. You should populate the SSD / main drive.
Lol really, gonna check tonight.
But speaking about it, I did reinstall windows and I reformated the whole drive, I never even saw an option to select a different kind if install??
Anyway slow boot time issue is resolved :)
 
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Otherwise I might have to switch to gigabyte xtreme after all.... the cold boot issues reported everywhere make me think twice though
Everywhere? According to one of my mates at Gigabyte, they don't have any unusual RMA counts on any X570 boards.
I know two guys here had issues with their Aorus Master's that just stopped working all of a sudden, but I have also seen MSI boards with the same behaviour elsewhere.
If we're to believe the rant linked below, it can affect just about any AMD system and there's supposedly a fix for it, but much of this reads like nonsense to me.
 
@TheLostSwede
enough ppl having problems with Gb boards, especially after they switched to dual bios.
this affects intel as well, so not caused by amd/x570.

having weekly issues like random reboots/cold boot issues (especially after unplugging power),
ram from qvl not working, yet ram not on the list does,
while ALL hw (beside board) worked fine with two (none Gb) sub 200$ x570 boards, shows it cant be anything else.

and more than once has Gb support acknowledged to a user they know there are issues,
only to have the next person saying "nothing wrong", all works as expected.
at least now i know what Gb thinks of customers buying +200$ hardware.


@heky
unless you know me personally, keep any "bro/dude" crap to yourself, im not your wasted friend that cant find his car.
 
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Everywhere? According to one of my mates at Gigabyte, they don't have any unusual RMA counts on any X570 boards.
I know two guys here had issues with their Aorus Master's that just stopped working all of a sudden, but I have also seen MSI boards with the same behaviour elsewhere.
If we're to believe the rant linked below, it can affect just about any AMD system and there's supposedly a fix for it, but much of this reads like nonsense to me.

@TheLostSwede
Of course you only find the negatives in the forums and not the countless positives, but I've read some threads where even in 2020 they had the typical gigabyte cold boot issues. There seemed to be fixes but that was a reason why I wanted to go MSI instead.

@TheLostSwede
enough ppl having problems with Gb boards, especially after they switched to dual bios.
this affects intel as well, so not caused by amd/x570.

having weekly issues like random reboots/cold boot issues (especially after unplugging power),
ram from qvl not working, yet ram not on the list does,
while ALL hw (beside board) worked fine with two (none Gb) sub 200$ x570 boards, shows it cant be anything else.

and more than once has Gb support acknowledged to a user they know there are issues,
only to have the next person saying "nothing wrong", all works as expected.
at least now i know what Gb thinks of customers buying +200$ hardware.
@Fry178
if the vendor really lets me wait up to 4 weeks, I really can't go with the MSI one, gotta bet on my luck again than haha. I could have the giga board by tomorrow.


Basically, LLC compensates for droop. Say you have the CPU running at 4GHz, 1.2V. While you're idle, everything looks normal. But when you fire up a full load benchmark like Prime95 Small for example, Vcore might drop to say 1.125V when the CPU is at 100% load. And so whether you're stable at 4GHz isn't dependent on the voltage that you've set (1.2V), it's dependent on the actual voltage after droop (1.125V). That's droop, and is engineered into VRM design.

LLC usually has a bunch of settings which vary from board to board, from default to really aggressive. The more aggressive you set LLC, the less you droop, but you increase the chance that you get an errant, larger and larger spike in Vcore in the instant when that benchmark begins and load is applied. Say that you still have that 1.2V Vcore, but now you set LLC on a relatively high setting; now when you fire up P95, your Vcore might only drop to 1.175V instead, even though your actual Vcore is still the same (1.2V) as before. But at maximum LLC settings, the spike introduced by LLC can become so large as to become a concern for chip longevity, especially if you're already running a fixed overclock with high voltage on any chip. In a split second when the benchmark starts, 1.2V may jump all the way up to 1.3V then immediately back down to 1.175V.

Because Matisse is self-regulating and always adjusting its Vcore (sub-0.3V) at idle, there's a lot that we don't know about how LLC or undervolting affects idle (from what I can see, it makes very little difference). But as with any other CPU, once that chip is at full sustained load, the same principles regarding Vcore, LLC and droop apply.

As a theoretical example, if you try -0.05V offset/High LLC and Stock Vcore/Default LLC, they may come out to the exact same load voltage and performance, but one runs tamer at idle.

Because we don't know exactly how Matisse is working at stock, it's hard to tell how these settings are working, but in my rig, the difference between -0.075V/Turbo and 0/Default is night and day. One is 10-15C cooler at idle, and always sounds like it's actually idle, while the other constantly sounds like it's ramping to 100% load on nothing. And I lose no performance at load compared to stock without PBO. I prefer to run -0.05V/High now for less aggressive LLC, it functions much the same and doesn't spike.

Basically, the issue with what a lot of people are doing with "undervolting" in the SFF space is that they're reducing the PPT value, or setting an aggressive undervolt (eg. -0.075V) without any LLC. If you reduce PPT, you simply prompt the chip to reduce clocks and performance, which may be beneficial in sub-10 litre cases where you can only make do with a crappy NH-L9a, but is otherwise undesirable. And undervolting without LLC, as we know, will reduce clocks and performance if Vcore is allowed to droop below the essential voltage that it needs for a specific clockspeed.

But every chip is different, so it's up to you to explore the voltage limits of yours and thus, how much undervolting room you have. LLC performance depends on the board too; some boards may take an extremely aggressive stance, while others may require max LLC just to make any difference to Vdroop. If you aren't too bothered about the idle behaviour, just leave it as it is. As long as 100% load temperatures don't reach 80C, you're fine.

Now I finally get that LLC is load line calibration ;). To be honest I think this stuff is a little out of my league, I don't wanna make matters worse by tweaking the wrong stuff, but I did watch some very informative bullzoid vids about it.

LOLz - I just realized that the power plan was "Ultimate Performance" for the last 2 days.... MSI Dragon Center Scenario switched that thing!!! holy moly are those sneaky software packages. Selecting "Extreme Performance" in Dragon Center changes the power plan, duuh.
That means that all the temps I recently reported were with the Ultimate Performance Power plan, :banghead:

@Fry178
To my surprise, the normal balanced power plan has the minprocessorstate at 5% whereas the AMD balanced plan has 99%.
So I'm back to AMD balance plan and change it now to 20% min processor state and 100% maxi processor state, correct?
 
...
just got another issue now, damn godlike board is sold out everywhere and I have to call the vendor what’s up... if i order now i get it in 2-4 weeks which is unacceptable. I hope they got one on the way already. Otherwise I might have to switch to gigabyte xtreme after all.... the cold boot issues reported everywhere make me think twice though
...

Why not keep your current board if your issues are resolved?

....
LOLz - I just realized that the power plan was "Ultimate Performance" for the last 2 days.... MSI Dragon Center Scenario switched that thing!!! holy moly are those sneaky software packages. Selecting "Extreme Performance" in Dragon Center changes the power plan, duuh.
That means that all the temps I recently reported were with the Ultimate Performance Power plan, :banghead:
....

You CPU temps seem ok. Are you still worried about them?

You should use the Ryzen power plan that came installed with AMD chipset drivers to get the best out of the processor.
In fact if it's not on your list be sure to install the latest chipset driver too on Windows 10 ver 19.09

Actually use this power plan instead.
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/1usmus-custom-power-plan-for-ryzen-3000-zen-2-processors/
If I recall properly there were 2 plans that come with this...the one you want is "1usmus Ryzen Universal"

Also in your BIOS/UEFI ensure the CPPC option are enabled and set to use preferred cores. I forgot what it was called exactly but it might be labeled a bit differently between bios vendors.
 
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Why not keep your current board if your issues are resolved?

You CPU temps seem ok. Are you still worried about them?

You should use the Ryzen power plan that came installed with AMD chipset drivers to get the best out of the processor.
In fact if it's not on your list be sure to install the latest chipset driver too on Windows 10 ver 19.09

Actually use this power plan instead.
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/1usmus-custom-power-plan-for-ryzen-3000-zen-2-processors/

Regarding the mobo replacement. I'm really not satisfied with the ram OC, can't even get the slightest tighter timings stable. I'm hoping to get a better experience with a new mobo. Besides that, yes I'm still a bit worried about the idle temps of mobo, chipset, etc. and hope to get it down with a new mobo as well.
I know that I will again probably dump money in something that is not really required, yes lots of problems are solved but I spent so much time so far (and you guys as well), I just wanna be able to get the most stable and fast system that I can and I believe I need a new mobo for it. The random strange behaviors, not restarting correctly and stuff is hopefully fixed as well than. And speaking of the overkill mobo - I'm not compromising anymore that's why I choose flagships, hell I can't travel this year anyway cause of Corona, so I better invest in the computer :D.

Regarding CPU temp, no not worried anymore though still some ppl report -10°C idle temps lower than I have. As long as cinebench gives decent results, I know that it boosts correctly and at load I won't have problems anymore as I used to have with the stock cooler.

I always installed the latest chipset driver directly from AMD and used the balanced power plan that comes with it. It was completely new to me that Dragon Center changes plans when u set scenarios haha.

So are you saying I should go with the 1usmus plan instead of the AMD Ryzen Balanced? Haven't read the thread yet

UPDATE:
Vendor has confirmed now that the board will be sent today or tomorrow the latest, that means on Friday I'm gonna have the Gigabyte Xtreme and the MSI Godlike at my house haha.
So which one to keep :roll:
What I've got out of reviews is that both are excellent overpriced boards :laugh:
+ Xtreme: no PCH fan
+ Xtreme: Design
+ Xtreme: Better thermals?
- Xtreme: Price a bit higher
+ MSI: supposedly better ram OC possible
+ MSI: rgb sync because I have an MSI card already
+ MSI: No reportings of cold boot issues :)
+ MSI: cheaper
- MSI: PCH fan - acc. to reviews it won't turn on often though
 
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Regarding the mobo replacement. I'm really not satisfied with the ram OC, can't even get the slightest tighter timings stable. I'm hoping to get a better experience with a new mobo. Besides that, yes I'm still a bit worried about the idle temps of mobo, chipset, etc. and hope to get it down with a new mobo as well.
I know that I will again probably dump money in something that is not really required, yes lots of problems are solved but I spent so much time so far (and you guys as well), I just wanna be able to get the most stable and fast system that I can and I believe I need a new mobo for it. The random strange behaviors, not restarting correctly and stuff is hopefully fixed as well than. And speaking of the overkill mobo - I'm not compromising anymore that's why I choose flagships, hell I can't travel this year anyway cause of Corona, so I better invest in the computer :D.

Custom builds are "custom" depending on the users preference not just for your build but also for your experience you want to get out of it. Do what you please. Ram OC can vary widely and is highly depending on the combination of motherboard, CPU, and RAM. How much $$ you want to throw at it is up to you.

Regarding CPU temp, no not worried anymore though still some ppl report -10°C idle temps lower than I have. As long as cinebench gives decent results, I know that it boosts correctly and at load I won't have problems anymore as I used to have with the stock cooler.

Don't forget comparing your temps with an other person is not exactly apples to apples since your not both in the same controlled environment and likely with other variances such as case, fan, configurations, different hardware and firmware and such.

I always installed the latest chipset driver directly from AMD and used the balanced power plan that comes with it.

Great!

So are you saying I should go with the 1usmus plan instead of the AMD Ryzen Balanced? Haven't read the thread yet

Not a requirement but I think my system works a bit better because of it.

.....
UPDATE:
Vendor has confirmed now that the board will be sent today or tomorrow the latest, that means on Friday I'm gonna have the Gigabyte Xtreme and the MSI Godlike at my house haha.
So which one to keep :roll:

o_O Don't have experience with either but I'd go for the Godlike. Your also invested in corsair from what I recall in your first post and that has the Corsair integration into that motherboard from what I saw in the manual.
 
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o_O Don't have experience with either but I'd go for the Godlike. Your also invested in corsair from what I recall in your first post and that has the Corsair integration into that motherboard from what I saw in the manual.
what exact corsair integration you mean, sensors from commander pro or something?
 
what exact corsair integration you mean, sensors from commander pro or something?

I think it had what was described as a lighting node pro onboard so you can hook your Corsair RGB fan controller to it. I didn't see how to hookup the Godlike on Zottys iCue diagrams on corsair forums so I'm not sure how you expand beyond what's shown in the manual but there is also an additional warning in the manual that might complicate setup if your going balls to the wall with RGB stuff. Go peek at the manual maybe you can make sense of it depending on what you currently have and plan to use.
 
I think it had what was described as a lighting node pro onboard so you can hook your Corsair RGB fan controller to it. I didn't see how to hookup the Godlike on Zottys iCue diagrams on corsair forums so I'm not sure how you expand beyond what's shown in the manual but there is also an additional warning in the manual that might complicate setup if your going balls to the wall with RGB stuff. Go peek at the manual maybe you can make sense of it depending on what you currently have and plan to use.
Good point, I have the whole thing ligntning node pro, commander pro, etc. I’m gonna check it out
 
You can use the amd balanced or 1usmus plan.
i prefer amd right now, 1usmus one hasnt been updated since nov last year,
but new drivers where released.
both times you want to set a couple of things in bios to on (vs auto).

either way, set min to something like 20-30% and your fine.
for me its a little easier to switch (power) profiles as i have a UPS, so win thinks i have a battery and shows the icon like if its a lappy.
this lets me switch profiles quickly, so i setup power saving with 0/50%, and balanced at 330/100%.
gets me less power consumption/heat when im surfing/streaming etc.

Yeah, get the msi.
On the ones i had, if chipset fan was set to silent, i rarely turns on usually only when benching/running full load.
A couple of "cheap" msi boards (x570) behaved better than the top Gb boards like master/ultra, so i wouldn't even "try" it.
unless of course you like to inflict pain on yourself, and risk having to swap boards again, if there is an issue :D

power-plan-settings.jpg
 
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Will do, I don’t think I will need the corsair stufff, I checked the manual and it could be useful if I hadn’t purchased a commander pro already which is running well.
The article feom 1usmus is gold! Definitely will check out his power plan and the bios settings.

I learned a lot the last weeks, lots of fun :) that’s why I don’t mind the money spent. My next computer build will however be planned ahead with more research than the current one :)

But one more thing: why do mobo manufacturers even build chipset drivers if everyone recommends the AMD/intel ones? :D
are certain manufacturers drivers better than others (this is just to please my thirst of knowledge)
 
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they do gear them towards their hw, but i prefer having newer drivers, rather than a 1 y old one specific for my board.
 
Everywhere? According to one of my mates at Gigabyte, they don't have any unusual RMA counts on any X570 boards.
I know two guys here had issues with their Aorus Master's that just stopped working all of a sudden, but I have also seen MSI boards with the same behaviour elsewhere.
If we're to believe the rant linked below, it can affect just about any AMD system and there's supposedly a fix for it, but much of this reads like nonsense to me.
Seconded, I have been locked in 0D and worse boot loops that would not clear via CLR CMOS on a couple of Asus board's and they took hardware out CLR CMOS tactics to get booting again all on x450-470 board's so it's not new I don't think.
In each case for me it was always related to memory tuning, either poorly supported memory trying to get near it's rated speed or pushing for that extra few percent, then lockup and big issues getting back into the bios at all.
 
But one more thing: why do mobo manufacturers even build chipset drivers if everyone recommends the AMD/intel ones? :D
are certain manufacturers drivers better than others (this is just to please my thirst of knowledge)
They don't, they just package the AMD drivers into their own installers, for some unfathomable reason.
Always use chipset drivers directly from the manufacturer when possible.
The only thing this might not apply to is audio drivers.

@ecopsorn did you check out this spreadsheet? It should allow you to compare just about all the features of both boards.
 
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...
But one more thing: why do mobo manufacturers even build chipset drivers if everyone recommends the AMD/intel ones? :D
are certain manufacturers drivers better than others (this is just to please my thirst of knowledge)
...

It's more like repackaging them. Often the motherboard vendor drivers provided can be outdated in cases of simple repackaging (or even simply archive copies) they distribute with their motherboards since users may not know how to find them otherwise. Ever get a motherboard driver CD?

In some cases they may tweak the drivers/software for whatever reason (more so for laptops). Sometimes there are differences between OEM chip drivers and vendor specific drivers. ( Realtek audio drivers for example. ) In cases of OEM drivers you may not get access all features for your integrated device.

In my case the only driver/software I actually needed from my AM4 motherboard vendor in my build was for Audio and RGB. In the case for RGB the software/driver actually will update another firmware on the motherboard so if you have special components and/or features onboard you might need to consider that.
 
In the case for RGB the software/driver actually will update another firmware on the motherboard so if you have special components and/or features onboard you might need to consider that.
There u got me confused a bit. Yes I need the rgb stuff but have not seen any of the software I install for rgb (Msi dragon center, razer synapse, corsair icue) to install anything firmware related.
In any case the chipset driver is the first driver I install in a fresh windows.
I know that none of these software packages are particularely easy on resources but I need them nevertheless. Won’t install anything though before I have my performance where I want it to be with proper ram tweaking.
 
There u got me confused a bit. Yes I need the rgb stuff but have not seen any of the software I install for rgb (Msi dragon center, razer synapse, corsair icue) to install anything firmware related.
In any case the chipset driver is the first driver I install in a fresh windows.
I know that none of these software packages are particularely easy on resources but I need them nevertheless. Won’t install anything though before I have my performance where I want it to be with proper ram tweaking.

Someone may have given you these links already (sorry too lazy to look back into thread)
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-memory-tweaking-overclocking-guide/
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/ryzen-dram-calculator/
But the number one thing that helped the most was simply finding others with the same or similar hardware and trying those settings to get me close to where I needed to be.
Good luck!

Love it or hate it you can use https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/ to do a quick and dirty test if your OC is going the right direction. You may see see in some cases the performance of other components change. Rather than looking at pure memory performance (other tools for that) you can glimpse at overall system performance and see additional impacts of your OC.

There u got me confused a bit. Yes I need the rgb stuff but have not seen any of the software I install for rgb (Msi dragon center, razer synapse, corsair icue) to install anything firmware related.
In any case the chipset driver is the first driver I install in a fresh windows.
I know that none of these software packages are particularely easy on resources but I need them nevertheless. Won’t install anything though before I have my performance where I want it to be with proper ram tweaking.

The RGB one was pretty sneaky. I thought it was just software I didn't need only to find out later in some far corner of the internet forums that it actually did a firmware update.
 
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